Caring For Your Goldfish
Care information about keeping goldfish as pets.
Goldfish are undemanding, cheap to feed and pretty to look at, which makes them popular pets. However a lot of owners don't know how to keep them healthy and happy.
First of all, when buying goldfish, you shouldn't let them be placed in those small water-filled plastic bags as these do not hold enough water or oxygen, so the fish usually dies soon afterwards. Because goldfish thrive on a good oxygen supply, you should buy a regtangular aquarium with a large water surface area, avoiding traditional round goldfish bowls. The aquarium should also have a glass cover with a gap of a few cenimetres for air exchange. Try to place the aquarium in a bright area that receives at least an hour's direct sunlight a day. The water must be kept unpolluted with a neutral pH range (between 6.8 and 7.2). Unfiltered aquariums should have the water partially changed several times a week; fltered tanks only need to have this done once a month. If you use tap water, let is stand in another container for about 45 days or buy some de-chlorinating tablets.
The greatest cause of death in goldfish is overfeeding. Only feed your fish what they can eat within five minutes and remove any leftover food. The average goldfish should be fed once a day with a pinch of fish food.
Sick fish are easy to spot. They will sit on the bottom of the tank, their fins and tails drooping, swim on their sides or even float upside down. Diseases can be caused by lack of filtration, incorrect water pH, dirty water, overcrowding and rough handling. Goldfish are also particularly sensitive to changes in their environment. Substances such as sprays, nicotene and new paint will harm the goldfish. If you suspect that your fish is sick take it to the vet and keep it in isolation to prevent the disease from spreading.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish
Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish
The Siamese Fighting Fish, or Betta splendens, are bubble-nesters that breed by collecting and tending to their eggs in bubbles at the aquarium's water surface. The Betta splendens or the Siamese Fighting Fish tropical freshwater aquarium fishes that are known and bred for their exotically colorful finnage. As "labyrinth" fishes, also known as Anabantids, they have the capability to breathe air and survive in what would normally be considered unpleasant habitats such as filter-less, non-aerated tanks, or even individual jars. This preferred solo existence, however, is actually for their own health and safety because in a community, Betta males will seek each other and fight to death.
Most labyrinth fishes, the Betta included, are bubble-nesters. To successfully breed the Betta, you need an average-sized aquarium that is very lightly aerated and heavily planted with vegetation reaching up to the surface. Floating plants with trailing roots will also serve the purpose because the fish will build their bubble-nests among the plants close to the water surface. The plants will hold the bubble-nest in place.
Use a tight-fitting cover for the tank so that humidity remains high at the surface. The humidity will prevent the bubble-nest and eggs from drying up.
At breeding time, the male Betta chooses a small area among the plants at the water surface to build a nest. He gulps air through his mouth and expels them in the water through his gills. The expelled bubbles are covered with sticky mucus; they float upwards (but don't pop), and remain held together, afloat, by the plant leaves.
The male then courts a female and lures her under the bubble nest. When the female is ready, the pair engages in a tumbling embrace where eggs and milt are released into the water. Betta eggs are heavy so they sink to the bottom. As soon as the male recovers from the embrace, he goes about catching the eggs with his mouth and depositing them into the bubble nest. The female joins the male in collecting the eggs, after which, they resume spawning. The tumbling, spawning, and egg-catching activity lasts for several hours, giving rise to a nest of about 200 to 300 eggs.
After spawning, the male assumes its paternal role: to watch over the nest and pick a fight with whoever comes near, including the female. At this point, the female should be removed from the breeding tank.
The male will continue to reinforce the bubble nest, diligently returning eggs that fall off or float away back into the cluster. In two to four days, the fry will emerge. The male must be removed at this point, because he will tend to consider the small fishes as food. The fry should then be fed with infusoria or any appropriate fine-powdered fry food.
The Siamese Fighting Fish, or Betta splendens, are bubble-nesters that breed by collecting and tending to their eggs in bubbles at the aquarium's water surface. The Betta splendens or the Siamese Fighting Fish tropical freshwater aquarium fishes that are known and bred for their exotically colorful finnage. As "labyrinth" fishes, also known as Anabantids, they have the capability to breathe air and survive in what would normally be considered unpleasant habitats such as filter-less, non-aerated tanks, or even individual jars. This preferred solo existence, however, is actually for their own health and safety because in a community, Betta males will seek each other and fight to death.
Most labyrinth fishes, the Betta included, are bubble-nesters. To successfully breed the Betta, you need an average-sized aquarium that is very lightly aerated and heavily planted with vegetation reaching up to the surface. Floating plants with trailing roots will also serve the purpose because the fish will build their bubble-nests among the plants close to the water surface. The plants will hold the bubble-nest in place.
Use a tight-fitting cover for the tank so that humidity remains high at the surface. The humidity will prevent the bubble-nest and eggs from drying up.
At breeding time, the male Betta chooses a small area among the plants at the water surface to build a nest. He gulps air through his mouth and expels them in the water through his gills. The expelled bubbles are covered with sticky mucus; they float upwards (but don't pop), and remain held together, afloat, by the plant leaves.
The male then courts a female and lures her under the bubble nest. When the female is ready, the pair engages in a tumbling embrace where eggs and milt are released into the water. Betta eggs are heavy so they sink to the bottom. As soon as the male recovers from the embrace, he goes about catching the eggs with his mouth and depositing them into the bubble nest. The female joins the male in collecting the eggs, after which, they resume spawning. The tumbling, spawning, and egg-catching activity lasts for several hours, giving rise to a nest of about 200 to 300 eggs.
After spawning, the male assumes its paternal role: to watch over the nest and pick a fight with whoever comes near, including the female. At this point, the female should be removed from the breeding tank.
The male will continue to reinforce the bubble nest, diligently returning eggs that fall off or float away back into the cluster. In two to four days, the fry will emerge. The male must be removed at this point, because he will tend to consider the small fishes as food. The fry should then be fed with infusoria or any appropriate fine-powdered fry food.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Breeding Guppies
Breeding Guppies
Breeding Guppies is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment.
Is Breeding Guppies the hobby for you?
Learn more.
Pet care is an awesome responsibility even with tiny pets such as guppies. The breeding of guppies is an even larger commitment. It requires a serious outlook and should not be taken lightly.
The initial consideration is space. Guppies are relatively easy to breed compared to other animals; however, it is essential to have plenty of room in your home or apartment to accommodate the equipment needed. The secret is to start small. Expansion should be expected if there is success.
In addition to the initial tank, two more aquariums, one for each sex, each with the capacity of 15 to 20 gallons, should be prepared for the young guppies. Keeping the sexes separate from the earliest possible time allows guppies to be nurtured to maturity and more easily and selectively bred. A series of additional ten-gallon aquariums should be maintained, too, so you can separate guppies of certain desired color patterns that appear from time to time. Each tank will require all the necessary equipment that is normally needed in a single tank, such as proper lighting, heating, and a filtration system.
Once you've set up the equipment, shop for your first breeding guppies. The requirement is a virgin female neither too young nor too old. The male should be as close to the female's age as possible. Start them off on a conditioned diet of white worms, live or frozen foods, mosquito larvae, and brine shrimp, with a daily addition of high quality dry food.
Observe the male and female in their new environment. The male at this point is almost always swimming around the female in an elaborate display, spreading his fins before the female, seeking her attention. It may seem that copulation occurs many times. Guppy copulation occurs when the male touches its forward protruding copulatory fin to the female's genital area.
If all goes as planned, a fertilized guppy female will produce a new batch of fry approximately every four weeks, if kept warm, with as many as five litters being produced as a result of a single mating.
The first sign that a female is about to give birth is her gravid spot on her belly. It begins to appear darker in color. The gravid spot gets darker and moves down the female's body toward her vent. At this point, remove the female from the tank very carefully and place her in the previously prepared separate aquarium with large masses of floating plants.
Young guppies are usually born head first, emerging from their mother's genital opening in a curled position. They will uncurl almost immediately after they are born and will make their way to the surface, where their swim bladders are filled with air for the first time. The best time to net them is when they begin to near the surface.
As soon after birth as possible, remove the female guppy to another aquarium by herself. While well-fed guppies do not usually feed on their own young, it is always best to play it safe.
Observe the new fry for at least a week. Fry food is available at pet stores. It is powdery in nature, so avoid over-feeding as this has a tendency to clog the filter. If you observe any deformed guppies, remove them immediately.
It is possible to begin determining the sexes and separating the fry after the initial week. Experts have a procedure for "sexing" the fry that is easily reproduced by a home enthusiast.
First, you will need a two-gallon aquarium and a piece of black cardboard that can cover the back of the aquarium. Cut a hole about 1/2 inch in the center of the cardboard and place it on the back of the aquarium. Place a small lamp with a frosted 100-watt bulb directly behind the hole. Using the water from the aquarium containing the new fry, fill the two-gallon tank. Carefully remove two or three fry from the tank and put them in the sexing tank. Wait until early evening when the sun is dim, and using a magnifying glass, observe the guppy as it swims through the beam of light. Under these specialized conditions, the gravid spot of the females can be detected. Males will not have this spot. Segregate the males and females.
After 4 to 6 weeks, you should be able to see if any of the fry are displaying unusual color designs that greatly vary from the parents. If you are seriously working toward developing an unusual color strain, these should be segregated into a smaller tank of about ten gallons.
Among guppy breeding enthusiasts, there is great honor bestowed on those who are able to produce a male and female strain of guppies whose color and markings are closely matched. For this reason, it is also recommended that you study body coloration and spots on fins of the females.
After six months, the time has come to choose a couple of females who have developed well-shaped bodies, fins, and coloration. Observe them and remove them carefully from the tank. Place two females in another aquarium with the male you have chosen. Lower the net carefully into the water and allow the guppies to swim out on their own. Never drop them as this can cause undo stress. At this point, the process of breeding starts all over again.
If your interest is serious, experts suggest acquiring new stock from sources different from where you acquired your original stock. In this manner, there is a possibility of creating a hybrid.
Breeding guppies is not for everyone. It is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment. If breeding guppies isn't the answer, guppies make wonderful pets without the need to breed them. Both are fun.
Breeding Guppies is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment.
Is Breeding Guppies the hobby for you?
Learn more.
Pet care is an awesome responsibility even with tiny pets such as guppies. The breeding of guppies is an even larger commitment. It requires a serious outlook and should not be taken lightly.
The initial consideration is space. Guppies are relatively easy to breed compared to other animals; however, it is essential to have plenty of room in your home or apartment to accommodate the equipment needed. The secret is to start small. Expansion should be expected if there is success.
In addition to the initial tank, two more aquariums, one for each sex, each with the capacity of 15 to 20 gallons, should be prepared for the young guppies. Keeping the sexes separate from the earliest possible time allows guppies to be nurtured to maturity and more easily and selectively bred. A series of additional ten-gallon aquariums should be maintained, too, so you can separate guppies of certain desired color patterns that appear from time to time. Each tank will require all the necessary equipment that is normally needed in a single tank, such as proper lighting, heating, and a filtration system.
Once you've set up the equipment, shop for your first breeding guppies. The requirement is a virgin female neither too young nor too old. The male should be as close to the female's age as possible. Start them off on a conditioned diet of white worms, live or frozen foods, mosquito larvae, and brine shrimp, with a daily addition of high quality dry food.
Observe the male and female in their new environment. The male at this point is almost always swimming around the female in an elaborate display, spreading his fins before the female, seeking her attention. It may seem that copulation occurs many times. Guppy copulation occurs when the male touches its forward protruding copulatory fin to the female's genital area.
If all goes as planned, a fertilized guppy female will produce a new batch of fry approximately every four weeks, if kept warm, with as many as five litters being produced as a result of a single mating.
The first sign that a female is about to give birth is her gravid spot on her belly. It begins to appear darker in color. The gravid spot gets darker and moves down the female's body toward her vent. At this point, remove the female from the tank very carefully and place her in the previously prepared separate aquarium with large masses of floating plants.
Young guppies are usually born head first, emerging from their mother's genital opening in a curled position. They will uncurl almost immediately after they are born and will make their way to the surface, where their swim bladders are filled with air for the first time. The best time to net them is when they begin to near the surface.
As soon after birth as possible, remove the female guppy to another aquarium by herself. While well-fed guppies do not usually feed on their own young, it is always best to play it safe.
Observe the new fry for at least a week. Fry food is available at pet stores. It is powdery in nature, so avoid over-feeding as this has a tendency to clog the filter. If you observe any deformed guppies, remove them immediately.
It is possible to begin determining the sexes and separating the fry after the initial week. Experts have a procedure for "sexing" the fry that is easily reproduced by a home enthusiast.
First, you will need a two-gallon aquarium and a piece of black cardboard that can cover the back of the aquarium. Cut a hole about 1/2 inch in the center of the cardboard and place it on the back of the aquarium. Place a small lamp with a frosted 100-watt bulb directly behind the hole. Using the water from the aquarium containing the new fry, fill the two-gallon tank. Carefully remove two or three fry from the tank and put them in the sexing tank. Wait until early evening when the sun is dim, and using a magnifying glass, observe the guppy as it swims through the beam of light. Under these specialized conditions, the gravid spot of the females can be detected. Males will not have this spot. Segregate the males and females.
After 4 to 6 weeks, you should be able to see if any of the fry are displaying unusual color designs that greatly vary from the parents. If you are seriously working toward developing an unusual color strain, these should be segregated into a smaller tank of about ten gallons.
Among guppy breeding enthusiasts, there is great honor bestowed on those who are able to produce a male and female strain of guppies whose color and markings are closely matched. For this reason, it is also recommended that you study body coloration and spots on fins of the females.
After six months, the time has come to choose a couple of females who have developed well-shaped bodies, fins, and coloration. Observe them and remove them carefully from the tank. Place two females in another aquarium with the male you have chosen. Lower the net carefully into the water and allow the guppies to swim out on their own. Never drop them as this can cause undo stress. At this point, the process of breeding starts all over again.
If your interest is serious, experts suggest acquiring new stock from sources different from where you acquired your original stock. In this manner, there is a possibility of creating a hybrid.
Breeding guppies is not for everyone. It is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment. If breeding guppies isn't the answer, guppies make wonderful pets without the need to breed them. Both are fun.
Friday, March 13, 2009
The Angelfish
The Angelfish
The angelfish is the most colorful fish of the tropical oceans. The are various species. The angelfish is a most colorful creature. He is among the many marine animals that live in the underwater coral reefs. The angelfish can be found in all parts of the world. They are usually found in tropical or sub tropical oceans. They live among the coral reefs.
There are seventy-two different species of the angelfish. Each a masterpiece of color and style. The blue lipped emperor and the blue angelfish are considered the most colorful of all angelfish. The angelfish with its different shapes, sizes and colors light up the oceans, where they make their home.
The angelfish will travel single or in a small group. They establish their own feeding territories, and are aggressive in defending them against their own kind and others. If others come near, they flaunt themselves, where the intruder knows whose space he is invading. The intruder will usually leave without incident.
The diet of the angelfish varies with each species. Some of the species eat plankton, algae and plants. The larger species eat worms, shrimp and shellfish. Some are known to eat coral polyp, which are tiny animals that live as part of the reef. Angelfish are known to change sex as they mature. The groups of angelfish consist of one male and his harem of females. When the male dies the strongest, female changes sex, to become the leading male. She or He becomes the defender and fertilizes all the eggs.
When angelfish breed the male and female head toward the surface of it tropical habitat. The female quickly lays eggs and the male fertilizes them. The eggs are left to float out to sea, most do not survive. The eggs, transform into larvae, which when floating locates new coral and attaches itself. They feed from the reef, and develop rapidly.
Angelfish are not an endangered species. Most pollution in some of their habitats could cause decreasing populations.
The angelfish is the most colorful fish of the tropical oceans. The are various species. The angelfish is a most colorful creature. He is among the many marine animals that live in the underwater coral reefs. The angelfish can be found in all parts of the world. They are usually found in tropical or sub tropical oceans. They live among the coral reefs.
There are seventy-two different species of the angelfish. Each a masterpiece of color and style. The blue lipped emperor and the blue angelfish are considered the most colorful of all angelfish. The angelfish with its different shapes, sizes and colors light up the oceans, where they make their home.
The angelfish will travel single or in a small group. They establish their own feeding territories, and are aggressive in defending them against their own kind and others. If others come near, they flaunt themselves, where the intruder knows whose space he is invading. The intruder will usually leave without incident.
The diet of the angelfish varies with each species. Some of the species eat plankton, algae and plants. The larger species eat worms, shrimp and shellfish. Some are known to eat coral polyp, which are tiny animals that live as part of the reef. Angelfish are known to change sex as they mature. The groups of angelfish consist of one male and his harem of females. When the male dies the strongest, female changes sex, to become the leading male. She or He becomes the defender and fertilizes all the eggs.
When angelfish breed the male and female head toward the surface of it tropical habitat. The female quickly lays eggs and the male fertilizes them. The eggs are left to float out to sea, most do not survive. The eggs, transform into larvae, which when floating locates new coral and attaches itself. They feed from the reef, and develop rapidly.
Angelfish are not an endangered species. Most pollution in some of their habitats could cause decreasing populations.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Caring For Baby Fish
Caring For Baby Fish
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when your fish have babies? How do you help them grow up to be healthy adults?
Baby fish are known as "fry". Typically healthy adult fish will breed on some sort of cycle so sooner or later you will have to care for fry to some extent. Fry are very vulnerable and few survive to grow up, although there are ways for you to maximize you success rate.
Separate tanks:
Most experts recommend moving pregnant fish into a separate tank, however usually you are unaware of your fish's maternal status. Just keep an extra tank around so that if fry appear you can evacuate them immediately. Make sure the new tank looks very similar to their destination environment and that pH levels are similar so your fry can adjust.
New home, better lighting:
A couple of factors will need to change in the fry's tank, specifically lighting. Bright lighting will encourage you fry to be active and when active they will eat more. The fry need the extra food to grow so keep a steady light on your fish.
New home, different filter:
Fry have a tendency to get caught in filters so try and under gravel or sponge filter as a precautionary measure.
New food:
Notice how your fry are born; if hatched the best food choices are artemia or infusoria. When the fish are larger ask a pet store employee what food best fits your purpose.
Weekly care:
Just like your adult tank make sure to test and check water temperature and chemistry regularly. Fry are even more susceptible to sudden changes and need a stable environment. Make sure to remove dead fish and ammonia every day. If you take good care of your fry and your adult fish you may very well have a large family of pets in no time.
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when your fish have babies? How do you help them grow up to be healthy adults?
Baby fish are known as "fry". Typically healthy adult fish will breed on some sort of cycle so sooner or later you will have to care for fry to some extent. Fry are very vulnerable and few survive to grow up, although there are ways for you to maximize you success rate.
Separate tanks:
Most experts recommend moving pregnant fish into a separate tank, however usually you are unaware of your fish's maternal status. Just keep an extra tank around so that if fry appear you can evacuate them immediately. Make sure the new tank looks very similar to their destination environment and that pH levels are similar so your fry can adjust.
New home, better lighting:
A couple of factors will need to change in the fry's tank, specifically lighting. Bright lighting will encourage you fry to be active and when active they will eat more. The fry need the extra food to grow so keep a steady light on your fish.
New home, different filter:
Fry have a tendency to get caught in filters so try and under gravel or sponge filter as a precautionary measure.
New food:
Notice how your fry are born; if hatched the best food choices are artemia or infusoria. When the fish are larger ask a pet store employee what food best fits your purpose.
Weekly care:
Just like your adult tank make sure to test and check water temperature and chemistry regularly. Fry are even more susceptible to sudden changes and need a stable environment. Make sure to remove dead fish and ammonia every day. If you take good care of your fry and your adult fish you may very well have a large family of pets in no time.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Damselfish In Aquarium
Damselfish In Aquarium
What do aquarium dmaselfish looklike?
How do they behave?
Everything you need to know about Damselfish?
What do they look like?
Damselfish can be some of the brightest colored fish in the sea. They are generally found in vivid colors of oranges, yellows, reds, and blues. You'll see them in solid colors and in white or black stripes. You'll even see them striped with a variety of their main colors. But all of the damselfish's markings are brilliant. The smaller these fish are, the more amazing their colors are. When these fish grow larger, their colors tend to fade a bit. Damselfish are oval-shaped and have large, beautiful fins. Their fins are often rounded, and their bodies are longer than they are wide. Their dorsal fins typically have about a dozen spines and a dozen sectioned rays. They are covered with reasonable-sized scales across their bodies. The have small mouths and their teeth are tiny and form the shape of a spoon.
How do they behave?
These fish like to live along the bottoms of bodies of water. They like to find a place to hide out to call home. This is generally a nook or cranny along the bottom of the ocean, such as a coral reef. This serves as a place to go when they feel threatened. They themselves, however, are also quite predatorial. When they see a sea creature they'd like for dinner, they don't waste any time or energy. They attack and bite the fish and let out fairly loud grunts.
What should you know about them?
When these fish spawn, the males in the bunch build nests. They clear rocky areas of vegetation, where the females lay between 50 and 1,000 eggs. Male damselfish protect the nest until they hatch about a week later.
What do aquarium dmaselfish looklike?
How do they behave?
Everything you need to know about Damselfish?
What do they look like?
Damselfish can be some of the brightest colored fish in the sea. They are generally found in vivid colors of oranges, yellows, reds, and blues. You'll see them in solid colors and in white or black stripes. You'll even see them striped with a variety of their main colors. But all of the damselfish's markings are brilliant. The smaller these fish are, the more amazing their colors are. When these fish grow larger, their colors tend to fade a bit. Damselfish are oval-shaped and have large, beautiful fins. Their fins are often rounded, and their bodies are longer than they are wide. Their dorsal fins typically have about a dozen spines and a dozen sectioned rays. They are covered with reasonable-sized scales across their bodies. The have small mouths and their teeth are tiny and form the shape of a spoon.
How do they behave?
These fish like to live along the bottoms of bodies of water. They like to find a place to hide out to call home. This is generally a nook or cranny along the bottom of the ocean, such as a coral reef. This serves as a place to go when they feel threatened. They themselves, however, are also quite predatorial. When they see a sea creature they'd like for dinner, they don't waste any time or energy. They attack and bite the fish and let out fairly loud grunts.
What should you know about them?
When these fish spawn, the males in the bunch build nests. They clear rocky areas of vegetation, where the females lay between 50 and 1,000 eggs. Male damselfish protect the nest until they hatch about a week later.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Keep Hermit Crabs And Snails In Your Home Aquarium
Should You Keep Hermit Crabs And Snails In Your Home Aquarium?
Are hermit crabs and snails safe for your tank?
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when housing crabs and snails in your aquarium?
Hermit crabs and snails can be a wonderful addition to any aquarium because of their janitorial tendencies. However, you need to keep in mind the demands of your system as to what sort of hermit or snail to purchase.
What are hermit crabs?
A hermit crab has three legs, which separates it from true crabs with four. Their bodies are vulnerable and therefore they provide their own shelter in the form of a shell, which you will have to provide them.
How do you select a hermit crab?
When it comes to purchasing a hermit size is probably the most important factor. Make sure that your hermit is small enough to get at the hard to reach algae you cannot clean, and also small enough so as to not pose a threat to your fish.
Which hermit crabs should you avoid?
Large hermit crabs such as Anemone Carrying Hermit, Yellow Hairy Hermit, Cone Shell Hermit, and Striped Hermit should be avoided.
Which hermit crabs are OK to buy?
The Scarlet Hermit is colorful and eats algae well, however they can get expensive. The Left Handed Hermit is very small and perfect for a tank with many small crevices. The Red Legged Hermit is also very small and eats slime algae. The Blue Legged Hermit is very small but can kill snails, so stay away snail owners!
How do you select a snail for your tank?
For snails, the pH level of your tank is probably the most important factor. Soft water can wreak havoc on a snail's shell, so make sure you are aware of your snail environment.
Which snails should you avoid?
Pond, Mystery, or Colombian Ramshorn snails consume egregious amounts of plants, so unless you have plant life to spare in your tank, stay away.
Which snails should you buy?
Astraea snails are famous for taking algae from rock surfaces. Pipipi snails are also good in rocky environments. Turbo, Malaysian Trumpet, and Ramshorn snails in general eat lots of algae, and the Apple snail only eats algae or dead fish.
In general just make sure before introducing a new pet into your aquarium environment that both the existing inhabitants and the newcomer will be able to thrive in their shared space.
Are hermit crabs and snails safe for your tank?
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when housing crabs and snails in your aquarium?
Hermit crabs and snails can be a wonderful addition to any aquarium because of their janitorial tendencies. However, you need to keep in mind the demands of your system as to what sort of hermit or snail to purchase.
What are hermit crabs?
A hermit crab has three legs, which separates it from true crabs with four. Their bodies are vulnerable and therefore they provide their own shelter in the form of a shell, which you will have to provide them.
How do you select a hermit crab?
When it comes to purchasing a hermit size is probably the most important factor. Make sure that your hermit is small enough to get at the hard to reach algae you cannot clean, and also small enough so as to not pose a threat to your fish.
Which hermit crabs should you avoid?
Large hermit crabs such as Anemone Carrying Hermit, Yellow Hairy Hermit, Cone Shell Hermit, and Striped Hermit should be avoided.
Which hermit crabs are OK to buy?
The Scarlet Hermit is colorful and eats algae well, however they can get expensive. The Left Handed Hermit is very small and perfect for a tank with many small crevices. The Red Legged Hermit is also very small and eats slime algae. The Blue Legged Hermit is very small but can kill snails, so stay away snail owners!
How do you select a snail for your tank?
For snails, the pH level of your tank is probably the most important factor. Soft water can wreak havoc on a snail's shell, so make sure you are aware of your snail environment.
Which snails should you avoid?
Pond, Mystery, or Colombian Ramshorn snails consume egregious amounts of plants, so unless you have plant life to spare in your tank, stay away.
Which snails should you buy?
Astraea snails are famous for taking algae from rock surfaces. Pipipi snails are also good in rocky environments. Turbo, Malaysian Trumpet, and Ramshorn snails in general eat lots of algae, and the Apple snail only eats algae or dead fish.
In general just make sure before introducing a new pet into your aquarium environment that both the existing inhabitants and the newcomer will be able to thrive in their shared space.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Seahorse And Your Aquarium
Seahorse And Your Aquarium
Can you keep seahorses in the same aquarium as your fish?
What's their natural habitat?
How do you take care of seahorses?
Seahorses posess a beauty that is both mythical and bewitching. These qualities draw many fans but maintaining a high quality of life for the seahorses can be exceptionally high maintaince. Seahorses are sparsely strewn about the vast ocean. This must be taken into consideration when shopping for one for you salt water tank. There should be no more than two seahorses in a 100 liter tank. Seahorses are territorial and any more than this amounmt could spur competition and the feeling that their homes are being invaded.
You really need to learn all the ins and outs of owning a seahorse before owning one. They require quite a bit of different kinds of live food. They'll need you to buy them brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, mysiad shrimp, and enriched Artemia. Some of these products are difficult to find, if you don't know where to look. Each of these different types of fish may be available in frozen form from a seafood dealer. You can ask your local aquatic expert for more information about dealers in your area.
Seahorses not only require a lot of different types of seafood, they require it often. You'll have to feed them these different types of shrimps at least twice a day. When shopping for a seahorse remember, same sex pairs are acceptable, but placing a female and a male in the same tank allows for less competitive nature and procreation. Seahorses primarly inhabit tropical reef regions so placing them in a reef like environment is best to ensure maximum quality of life .
Can you keep seahorses in the same aquarium as your fish?
What's their natural habitat?
How do you take care of seahorses?
Seahorses posess a beauty that is both mythical and bewitching. These qualities draw many fans but maintaining a high quality of life for the seahorses can be exceptionally high maintaince. Seahorses are sparsely strewn about the vast ocean. This must be taken into consideration when shopping for one for you salt water tank. There should be no more than two seahorses in a 100 liter tank. Seahorses are territorial and any more than this amounmt could spur competition and the feeling that their homes are being invaded.
You really need to learn all the ins and outs of owning a seahorse before owning one. They require quite a bit of different kinds of live food. They'll need you to buy them brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, mysiad shrimp, and enriched Artemia. Some of these products are difficult to find, if you don't know where to look. Each of these different types of fish may be available in frozen form from a seafood dealer. You can ask your local aquatic expert for more information about dealers in your area.
Seahorses not only require a lot of different types of seafood, they require it often. You'll have to feed them these different types of shrimps at least twice a day. When shopping for a seahorse remember, same sex pairs are acceptable, but placing a female and a male in the same tank allows for less competitive nature and procreation. Seahorses primarly inhabit tropical reef regions so placing them in a reef like environment is best to ensure maximum quality of life .
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Aquarium Frogs
Aquarium Frogs
Aquarium frogs need good homes - how do you set up the right aquarium that's best for your particular frog?
The home you chose for your frog is the most important decision you will make while owning your little friend. It should be a place where they will enjoy living in, which means something close or resembling their natural habitat. You need to find that a tank that will provide your frog with the best living standards.
What kind of housing should you provide for your your frog?
There exist many different types of frog. You need to know what kind of environment you frog would usually live in to design it's habitat
appropriately. Dry land frogs need a dry tank. Water frogs need an aquatic set-up. Tree frogs need high limbs and branches to climb on. Then again, some frogs need both aquatic and dry land aspects to their tanks.
The normal sized frog can live comfortably in a twenty gallon tank. For bigger frogs you will need a bigger tank. For more than one frog, you will need a much bigger tank. The should also provide ample light. A fluorescent lighting is suggested for almost all frogs.
For aquatic frogs you may want to consider heating the water. Almost all water frogs prefer a warm, humid environment. For land frogs you can keep the conditions at room temperature. For the most part, these frogs will live comfortably in the temperature you choose to live in.
When considering a flooring for your frog's tank, stay away from pebbles or wood shavings. The frog will eat the smaller pieces of these floorings. Pine chips will suffice however, potting soil or sand will allow to plant small trees and other plants that your frog will likely enjoy. Moss will keep the tank damp, something that even the land frogs will enjoy. The last thing to consider it providing a hiding place for your frog. In a captive setting the frog will want a place to itself, where it cannot be seen. A good haven for a frog is a hollow log. Any type of wood will do. As long as the frog can fit inside of it it will do just fine and your frog will much happier
Aquarium frogs need good homes - how do you set up the right aquarium that's best for your particular frog?
The home you chose for your frog is the most important decision you will make while owning your little friend. It should be a place where they will enjoy living in, which means something close or resembling their natural habitat. You need to find that a tank that will provide your frog with the best living standards.
What kind of housing should you provide for your your frog?
There exist many different types of frog. You need to know what kind of environment you frog would usually live in to design it's habitat
appropriately. Dry land frogs need a dry tank. Water frogs need an aquatic set-up. Tree frogs need high limbs and branches to climb on. Then again, some frogs need both aquatic and dry land aspects to their tanks.
The normal sized frog can live comfortably in a twenty gallon tank. For bigger frogs you will need a bigger tank. For more than one frog, you will need a much bigger tank. The should also provide ample light. A fluorescent lighting is suggested for almost all frogs.
For aquatic frogs you may want to consider heating the water. Almost all water frogs prefer a warm, humid environment. For land frogs you can keep the conditions at room temperature. For the most part, these frogs will live comfortably in the temperature you choose to live in.
When considering a flooring for your frog's tank, stay away from pebbles or wood shavings. The frog will eat the smaller pieces of these floorings. Pine chips will suffice however, potting soil or sand will allow to plant small trees and other plants that your frog will likely enjoy. Moss will keep the tank damp, something that even the land frogs will enjoy. The last thing to consider it providing a hiding place for your frog. In a captive setting the frog will want a place to itself, where it cannot be seen. A good haven for a frog is a hollow log. Any type of wood will do. As long as the frog can fit inside of it it will do just fine and your frog will much happier
Sunday, March 1, 2009
How To Breed Livebearing Tropical Fishes
How To Breed Livebearing Tropical Fishes
Livebearing freshwater tropical fishes like Guppies, Swordtails, Platies and Mollies breed by giving birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming young. Livebearing tropical fishes as so called because they do not lay eggs. They give birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming fry. Examples of livebearers are the Guppies, Swordtails, Platies, and Mollies.
The eggs of livebearers are fertilized and develop inside the body of the female, making the count of offspring relatively low – up to 50 per spawning. However, livebearing females have a unique capability to store sperm, which allows them to develop several successive broods from just one mating session.
The male has a gonopodium, a sex organ derived from several rays of the anal fin. When mating, the male directs its gonopodium towards the female and while briefly attached to the partner's cloaca, the gonopodium releases and channels sperms into the female. Once fertilized, female livebearers will nonchalantly give birth to their fry even in a community aquarium, with successive broods born as often as monthly. Unfortunately, the fry, being very small, become easy prey for other fishes, including their "parents". Fine-leaved plants offer good hiding places for the newly born, but not very many will survive to adulthood in a well-populated fish community. Which is why a specialized breeding tank is recommended for livebearing species.
Transfer the female, when she's about ready to drop her young, to a breeding aquarium rigged with breeding traps (plastic ones are commercially available) that will separate and safeguard the young. You can use layers of fine-leaved plants or patches of Java Moss where the offspring can hide. After the female delivers her brood, return her to the community
Livebearing freshwater tropical fishes like Guppies, Swordtails, Platies and Mollies breed by giving birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming young. Livebearing tropical fishes as so called because they do not lay eggs. They give birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming fry. Examples of livebearers are the Guppies, Swordtails, Platies, and Mollies.
The eggs of livebearers are fertilized and develop inside the body of the female, making the count of offspring relatively low – up to 50 per spawning. However, livebearing females have a unique capability to store sperm, which allows them to develop several successive broods from just one mating session.
The male has a gonopodium, a sex organ derived from several rays of the anal fin. When mating, the male directs its gonopodium towards the female and while briefly attached to the partner's cloaca, the gonopodium releases and channels sperms into the female. Once fertilized, female livebearers will nonchalantly give birth to their fry even in a community aquarium, with successive broods born as often as monthly. Unfortunately, the fry, being very small, become easy prey for other fishes, including their "parents". Fine-leaved plants offer good hiding places for the newly born, but not very many will survive to adulthood in a well-populated fish community. Which is why a specialized breeding tank is recommended for livebearing species.
Transfer the female, when she's about ready to drop her young, to a breeding aquarium rigged with breeding traps (plastic ones are commercially available) that will separate and safeguard the young. You can use layers of fine-leaved plants or patches of Java Moss where the offspring can hide. After the female delivers her brood, return her to the community
Friday, February 27, 2009
Tropical Aquarium Plants
How To Care For Tropical Aquarium Plants
Tropical aquarium plants should be cared for with proper lighting, regular fertilizing and grooming, and regular water changes.
The fish and live plants in your tropical freshwater aquarium rely on each other for health and nutrition. But because they are in a closed environment, they also rely on the diligence of their caretaker. So, just as you would care for the well-being of your fishes, you must also take diligent care of your aquatic plants. Here are some tips to remember:
1. Provide the right amount of light. Most aquatic plants require about 10 to 12 hours of light exposure in order to thrive. Some need intense light (which is not the same as prolonged exposure) for proper growth. Research on the specific requirements of the plants you've chosen so that you can determine what type of lighting is appropriate.
2. Do regular check-ups and plant grooming.
Trim dead or damaged leaves and branches, propagate by cutting or separating new growth, and remove plant-eating snails.
3. Fertilize.
Aquatic plant fertilizers that are rich in nutrients like iron and potassium are available as pellets and in liquid form. Follow the product instructions on the quantity, schedule, and manner of applying these fertilizers.
4. Change some of the water.
Aquarium plants play an active role in the tank's nitrogen cycle, but sometimes the water composition degrades into one that is not highly beneficial to plants anymore, in which case, refresh the quality of the environment by changing up to 20 percent of the tank water every couple of weeks. Be sure to de-chlorinate and check the temperature of the new water before introducing it into the tank.
5. Avoid introducing elements that are toxic to the plants.
The standard manner of treating fish ailments is by dropping medication directly into the water. Unfortunately, many fish medications are harmful to plants, because they can affect leaf coloring and absorption of nutrients. Never pour anti-chlorine and water conditioners directly on the plants. When medicating fish, transfer them to an unplanted tank.
6. Be aware of indications of poor maintenance.
When the tank's conditions are less than ideal, you will see the effects on the plant leaves. Pale and widely spaced leaf growth is a sign of poor or insufficient light. Blackening of the leaves indicates pollution. Yellowing of the leaves is a sign of lack of nutrients like iron. And holes or damage indicates the presence of either snails or vegetarian fish. Attend to these distress signs immediately so that your aquarium garden will always be in good health.
Tropical aquarium plants should be cared for with proper lighting, regular fertilizing and grooming, and regular water changes.
The fish and live plants in your tropical freshwater aquarium rely on each other for health and nutrition. But because they are in a closed environment, they also rely on the diligence of their caretaker. So, just as you would care for the well-being of your fishes, you must also take diligent care of your aquatic plants. Here are some tips to remember:
1. Provide the right amount of light. Most aquatic plants require about 10 to 12 hours of light exposure in order to thrive. Some need intense light (which is not the same as prolonged exposure) for proper growth. Research on the specific requirements of the plants you've chosen so that you can determine what type of lighting is appropriate.
2. Do regular check-ups and plant grooming.
Trim dead or damaged leaves and branches, propagate by cutting or separating new growth, and remove plant-eating snails.
3. Fertilize.
Aquatic plant fertilizers that are rich in nutrients like iron and potassium are available as pellets and in liquid form. Follow the product instructions on the quantity, schedule, and manner of applying these fertilizers.
4. Change some of the water.
Aquarium plants play an active role in the tank's nitrogen cycle, but sometimes the water composition degrades into one that is not highly beneficial to plants anymore, in which case, refresh the quality of the environment by changing up to 20 percent of the tank water every couple of weeks. Be sure to de-chlorinate and check the temperature of the new water before introducing it into the tank.
5. Avoid introducing elements that are toxic to the plants.
The standard manner of treating fish ailments is by dropping medication directly into the water. Unfortunately, many fish medications are harmful to plants, because they can affect leaf coloring and absorption of nutrients. Never pour anti-chlorine and water conditioners directly on the plants. When medicating fish, transfer them to an unplanted tank.
6. Be aware of indications of poor maintenance.
When the tank's conditions are less than ideal, you will see the effects on the plant leaves. Pale and widely spaced leaf growth is a sign of poor or insufficient light. Blackening of the leaves indicates pollution. Yellowing of the leaves is a sign of lack of nutrients like iron. And holes or damage indicates the presence of either snails or vegetarian fish. Attend to these distress signs immediately so that your aquarium garden will always be in good health.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Aquarium Substrates For Healthy Fish
Aquarium Substrates For Healthy Fish
How can you make your fish feel most at home in your tank?
What kinds of substrates should you put in the bottom of your tank to improve your fish's lives?
Any pet owner wants to accommodate their pet within reason, and in general you want your pet to enjoy their environment. You aquarium substrate is a huge facet of your fish's immediate surroundings and can be either harmful or great for your fish. Because your fish will want this medium for hiding out in, or even laying eggs it is necessary to try and find the right substrate.
What type
First, keep in mind that your fish will come into contact with your substrate regularly. For this reason you should try and get smooth surfaced objects that won't scratch or cut your fish's skin. Also, you want something rather substantial in size, smaller objects can cause all sorts of problems such as getting sucked into the air filter etc.
Color is also important. You want your fish to feel at home so research where they might hang out in nature. While typically fish live in darker earthy toned environments ask a pet store employee about it just in case.
What you should avoid
In general avoid substrates that you don't know a whole lot about. Go to a good pet store to make sure you know all about what you are putting into your tank. Problems such as bacteria growth, mineral and lime deposits can all have a negative affect on you fish's environment.
Maintenance
Make sure and only put the amount of substrate in that you need. If your filter is under gravel then three or four inches is appropriate, if the filter doesn't pull waste and food from the bottom keep a thin layer. Make sure and also clean your substrate regularly. Cleansing can be accomplished by simply putting it in a strainer and running cold water over it. Do so before you put it into the tank after buying it as well.
How can you make your fish feel most at home in your tank?
What kinds of substrates should you put in the bottom of your tank to improve your fish's lives?
Any pet owner wants to accommodate their pet within reason, and in general you want your pet to enjoy their environment. You aquarium substrate is a huge facet of your fish's immediate surroundings and can be either harmful or great for your fish. Because your fish will want this medium for hiding out in, or even laying eggs it is necessary to try and find the right substrate.
What type
First, keep in mind that your fish will come into contact with your substrate regularly. For this reason you should try and get smooth surfaced objects that won't scratch or cut your fish's skin. Also, you want something rather substantial in size, smaller objects can cause all sorts of problems such as getting sucked into the air filter etc.
Color is also important. You want your fish to feel at home so research where they might hang out in nature. While typically fish live in darker earthy toned environments ask a pet store employee about it just in case.
What you should avoid
In general avoid substrates that you don't know a whole lot about. Go to a good pet store to make sure you know all about what you are putting into your tank. Problems such as bacteria growth, mineral and lime deposits can all have a negative affect on you fish's environment.
Maintenance
Make sure and only put the amount of substrate in that you need. If your filter is under gravel then three or four inches is appropriate, if the filter doesn't pull waste and food from the bottom keep a thin layer. Make sure and also clean your substrate regularly. Cleansing can be accomplished by simply putting it in a strainer and running cold water over it. Do so before you put it into the tank after buying it as well.
Monday, February 23, 2009
How To Add New Fish To Your Aquarium
How To Add New Fish To Your Aquarium
What's the best way to add new fish to your aquarium to maintain the health of your existing fish and get your new fish acclimated? What are the right ways to do this?
What are the wrong ways?
Do you need to quarantine?
Most experts say quarantining is necessary. This will allow time for your fish to adjust and will allow time to make sure your fish are healthy. The last thing you want to do is put a sick fish in your tank and make all your fish ill.
What should you look for?
You need to look for fin and tail rot, fungal infections and ich. Fin and tail rot is one of the most common. It can spread quickly to other fish. If you see any signs, you will want to get an antibiotic quickly.
Fungal infections are growths of fungus on your fish's body or lips. If you see the white growths, purchase an antibiotic treatment.
Ich can look like fungus but is caused by parasites. To tell the difference, look for small, round white spots. If you see them, go ahead and raise the temperature in your tank. Also, purchase medicine. Both will help cure your fish.
When should you put the new fish in your tank?
If your new fish does not show any signs of sickness in two weeks you can transfer it to your tank. Some experts suggest moving fish at night when other fish might be asleep. That way, there will be less confrontation between the new and old fish.
How do you prepare the tank?
The new fish will want places to hide, so add rocks or pots to your aquarium. You will also need to maintain pH levels as usual. A new fish will be particularly sensitive to changing levels.
How do you move the fish?
Put the fish in a plastic bag with water from the quarantine tank. Then, put the bag in the regular tank. Slowly let the bag fill with the new water. The fish will swim out naturally.
It is even more important now to watch the pH levels in your tank. Adding fish will surge the ammonia levels. That is why you should not add any more than two fish to your aquarium at a time. For awhile, you might want to check the pH levels more than once a week. Once you see that the tank has stabilized, you can check less often.
What's the best way to add new fish to your aquarium to maintain the health of your existing fish and get your new fish acclimated? What are the right ways to do this?
What are the wrong ways?
Do you need to quarantine?
Most experts say quarantining is necessary. This will allow time for your fish to adjust and will allow time to make sure your fish are healthy. The last thing you want to do is put a sick fish in your tank and make all your fish ill.
What should you look for?
You need to look for fin and tail rot, fungal infections and ich. Fin and tail rot is one of the most common. It can spread quickly to other fish. If you see any signs, you will want to get an antibiotic quickly.
Fungal infections are growths of fungus on your fish's body or lips. If you see the white growths, purchase an antibiotic treatment.
Ich can look like fungus but is caused by parasites. To tell the difference, look for small, round white spots. If you see them, go ahead and raise the temperature in your tank. Also, purchase medicine. Both will help cure your fish.
When should you put the new fish in your tank?
If your new fish does not show any signs of sickness in two weeks you can transfer it to your tank. Some experts suggest moving fish at night when other fish might be asleep. That way, there will be less confrontation between the new and old fish.
How do you prepare the tank?
The new fish will want places to hide, so add rocks or pots to your aquarium. You will also need to maintain pH levels as usual. A new fish will be particularly sensitive to changing levels.
How do you move the fish?
Put the fish in a plastic bag with water from the quarantine tank. Then, put the bag in the regular tank. Slowly let the bag fill with the new water. The fish will swim out naturally.
It is even more important now to watch the pH levels in your tank. Adding fish will surge the ammonia levels. That is why you should not add any more than two fish to your aquarium at a time. For awhile, you might want to check the pH levels more than once a week. Once you see that the tank has stabilized, you can check less often.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Choosing Aquarium Fish
Choosing Aquarium Fish
Choosing aquarium fish: Which ones are the easiest to care for? Which ones are the most difficult? Which ones should you avoid?
You've chosen to buy fish as pets, but aren't quite sure which ones to get once you get the store. It's an important decision because, while fish at first glance appear to be simple creatures to care for, there are many fish that can actually be too much for many beginners to handle.
What are some good fish for beginners?
Betas
This species is one of the few types of fish that actually enjoys living in bowls. So if you know you don't have space for a large aquarium, betas are one type you should consider. Betas are colorful fish and have long graceful fins.
Tetras
These fish are easy to care for. They are colorful and enjoy having plenty of other tetras around. One down side to Tetras is that they are known to sometimes carry diseases that only their species can carry. Be sure you buy healthy fish.
Guppies
Guppies are small fish, and you can house a lot of them in a small space. They're great for children, as they are among the easiest fish to care for. One thing you need to watch out for with guppies, however, is that they breed easily. Once you have a few guppies in your tank or bowl, it won't be long before they'll multiply in number.
What are some bad fish for beginners?
Mollies
These fish are complex to care for. They require higher pH water levels and warmer water temperatures than most other fish.
Eels
Eels are creatures that need a lot of space. While they look like they'd be easy to care for, they usually are not. Also, it doesn't take much for an eel to become stressed, and if you don't know what symptoms to look for, it can prove dangerous for your eel.
Piranhas
Piranhas are complicated to care for and require a lot of space. They eat quite a bit of food, and their food can be expensive. So while it may sound cool to own a piranha, it may not be a good idea for a beginning fish owner.
Choosing aquarium fish: Which ones are the easiest to care for? Which ones are the most difficult? Which ones should you avoid?
You've chosen to buy fish as pets, but aren't quite sure which ones to get once you get the store. It's an important decision because, while fish at first glance appear to be simple creatures to care for, there are many fish that can actually be too much for many beginners to handle.
What are some good fish for beginners?
Betas
This species is one of the few types of fish that actually enjoys living in bowls. So if you know you don't have space for a large aquarium, betas are one type you should consider. Betas are colorful fish and have long graceful fins.
Tetras
These fish are easy to care for. They are colorful and enjoy having plenty of other tetras around. One down side to Tetras is that they are known to sometimes carry diseases that only their species can carry. Be sure you buy healthy fish.
Guppies
Guppies are small fish, and you can house a lot of them in a small space. They're great for children, as they are among the easiest fish to care for. One thing you need to watch out for with guppies, however, is that they breed easily. Once you have a few guppies in your tank or bowl, it won't be long before they'll multiply in number.
What are some bad fish for beginners?
Mollies
These fish are complex to care for. They require higher pH water levels and warmer water temperatures than most other fish.
Eels
Eels are creatures that need a lot of space. While they look like they'd be easy to care for, they usually are not. Also, it doesn't take much for an eel to become stressed, and if you don't know what symptoms to look for, it can prove dangerous for your eel.
Piranhas
Piranhas are complicated to care for and require a lot of space. They eat quite a bit of food, and their food can be expensive. So while it may sound cool to own a piranha, it may not be a good idea for a beginning fish owner.
Selecting Fish For Your Aquarium
Selecting Fish For Your Aquarium
Tips and techniques on selecting the proper fish for your aquarium.
Once you have your aquarium completely set up in your home, it is time to decide what fish to put in it. There are many different tropical fish on the market. There are also fish that are good with other fish and ones that are not.
Here are a few tips for choosing fish for your aquarium.
1. I like to purchase my fish at a small pet store instead of a large chain store. The fish seem healthier and most of the time, cheaper. I feel that the pet store fish have been better taken care of.
2. Make sure the fish you choose will interact with each other. Some fish are social and others will kill each other. If you want these aggressive fish, be sure to keep them by themselves.
3. You also need to decide whether you are purchasing fresh or salt water fish. They each require different aquarium set ups.
4. Always pick the fish that seem most active in the tank. You don't want to purchase a sick fish.
5. Don't overcrowd your aquarium. I recommend one fish per gallon of water.
6. Don't purchase small and large fish together. Try to get fish pretty much the same size.
7. When you purchase new fish keep them away from the others a few days to monitor them for diseases.
I hope these tips will be helpful to you when you go to purchase fish for your aquarium. Just keep your aquarium cleaned and filtered properly, and you should have no trouble at all with your fish.
Tips and techniques on selecting the proper fish for your aquarium.
Once you have your aquarium completely set up in your home, it is time to decide what fish to put in it. There are many different tropical fish on the market. There are also fish that are good with other fish and ones that are not.
Here are a few tips for choosing fish for your aquarium.
1. I like to purchase my fish at a small pet store instead of a large chain store. The fish seem healthier and most of the time, cheaper. I feel that the pet store fish have been better taken care of.
2. Make sure the fish you choose will interact with each other. Some fish are social and others will kill each other. If you want these aggressive fish, be sure to keep them by themselves.
3. You also need to decide whether you are purchasing fresh or salt water fish. They each require different aquarium set ups.
4. Always pick the fish that seem most active in the tank. You don't want to purchase a sick fish.
5. Don't overcrowd your aquarium. I recommend one fish per gallon of water.
6. Don't purchase small and large fish together. Try to get fish pretty much the same size.
7. When you purchase new fish keep them away from the others a few days to monitor them for diseases.
I hope these tips will be helpful to you when you go to purchase fish for your aquarium. Just keep your aquarium cleaned and filtered properly, and you should have no trouble at all with your fish.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Setting Up A Simple Aquarium At Home
Setting Up A Simple Aquarium At Home
How to set up a simple Fresh water Aquarium at home and maintain it to enjoy the beauty of nature in close quarters.
Watching colorful fish swaying is enjoyable. Everyone loves to have an aquarium at home. A fresh water aquarium is a miniature water-world. Creating it at home is fun.
To setup an aquarium at home select a place where there is no direct sunlight. Buy a medium sized glass tank. Larger the tank minimum is your maintenance problem. The tank should be fitted with a cover or hood. Fix a fluorescent tube in it. This total set up is readily available with aquarium shops.
The bottom of the tank can be filled up to 2 inches height with coarse river sand. Avoid using pebbles or stones to fill up, as dirt will settle between them and maintenance will be difficult. The river sand should be washed thoroughly 15 to 20 times till the water poured on it stays clear. Only soft water should be used.
First fill only one third of the tank with water. Introduce ornamental items like a few big pebbles and driftwoods – woods that you find on the riversides. These are only optional to add up to the beauty of the aquarium. Plant firmly on the sand, fresh water plants like Vallisneria, Amazon Sword and Lace Plant. These can be bought from aquarists. Fill up the rest of the tank with water and allow it to settle down for three to four days.
Buy healthy fish, which can stay together in a community tank like Guppies, Mollies, Swordtails, Tetras, Angelfish and Gold Fish. A few scavengers like Loaches & Catfish can be added. Fish brought in plastic bags from the shop should be floated on the surface of the tank for at least 15 minutes to equalize the temperature of water. Avoid overcrowding. Allow one and half liters of water for every 1cm. Length of fish. To calculate the liters of water in the tank multiply length by height by width in cms. And divide by 1000. Then 10% has to be deducted for the sand, plants and decorative materials.
Feeding should be done once or twice a day. It is best to buy the fish food pellets available in aquarium shops. Food given should be consumed within two to three minutes. Watch and feed carefully. Any excess food should be removed. Otherwise it will cloud the water. The lights should be kept on, throughout the day to enable the plants to grow. Artificial plants can be substituted for natural ones or both can also be mixed.
Once in three weeks the glasses should be cleaned with a scrubber to remove any formation of algae. The dirt collected at the bottom on top of the sand should be siphoned out with the help of a thin bore tube. Amount of water removed should be replaced gently without disturbing much. Only once in 6 to 7 months the total set up should be thoroughly washed, cleaned and reset after removing the fish first with the help of a net to another container.
A fresh water aquarium set with bright colored fish, evergreen plants and light brightens up the home. It is a silent beautiful nature. Young and old enjoy watching it. Watching it reduces one's stress, tension and even blood pressure. It is a creation, which gives tremendous satisfaction and happiness. It takes you closer to nature.
How to set up a simple Fresh water Aquarium at home and maintain it to enjoy the beauty of nature in close quarters.
Watching colorful fish swaying is enjoyable. Everyone loves to have an aquarium at home. A fresh water aquarium is a miniature water-world. Creating it at home is fun.
To setup an aquarium at home select a place where there is no direct sunlight. Buy a medium sized glass tank. Larger the tank minimum is your maintenance problem. The tank should be fitted with a cover or hood. Fix a fluorescent tube in it. This total set up is readily available with aquarium shops.
The bottom of the tank can be filled up to 2 inches height with coarse river sand. Avoid using pebbles or stones to fill up, as dirt will settle between them and maintenance will be difficult. The river sand should be washed thoroughly 15 to 20 times till the water poured on it stays clear. Only soft water should be used.
First fill only one third of the tank with water. Introduce ornamental items like a few big pebbles and driftwoods – woods that you find on the riversides. These are only optional to add up to the beauty of the aquarium. Plant firmly on the sand, fresh water plants like Vallisneria, Amazon Sword and Lace Plant. These can be bought from aquarists. Fill up the rest of the tank with water and allow it to settle down for three to four days.
Buy healthy fish, which can stay together in a community tank like Guppies, Mollies, Swordtails, Tetras, Angelfish and Gold Fish. A few scavengers like Loaches & Catfish can be added. Fish brought in plastic bags from the shop should be floated on the surface of the tank for at least 15 minutes to equalize the temperature of water. Avoid overcrowding. Allow one and half liters of water for every 1cm. Length of fish. To calculate the liters of water in the tank multiply length by height by width in cms. And divide by 1000. Then 10% has to be deducted for the sand, plants and decorative materials.
Feeding should be done once or twice a day. It is best to buy the fish food pellets available in aquarium shops. Food given should be consumed within two to three minutes. Watch and feed carefully. Any excess food should be removed. Otherwise it will cloud the water. The lights should be kept on, throughout the day to enable the plants to grow. Artificial plants can be substituted for natural ones or both can also be mixed.
Once in three weeks the glasses should be cleaned with a scrubber to remove any formation of algae. The dirt collected at the bottom on top of the sand should be siphoned out with the help of a thin bore tube. Amount of water removed should be replaced gently without disturbing much. Only once in 6 to 7 months the total set up should be thoroughly washed, cleaned and reset after removing the fish first with the help of a net to another container.
A fresh water aquarium set with bright colored fish, evergreen plants and light brightens up the home. It is a silent beautiful nature. Young and old enjoy watching it. Watching it reduces one's stress, tension and even blood pressure. It is a creation, which gives tremendous satisfaction and happiness. It takes you closer to nature.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Maintaining A Home Aquarium
Maintaining A Home Aquarium
Tips on maintaining an aquarium in your home.
It is nice to have an aquarium in your home. Just sitting and staring at the fish swimming around seems so peaceful. If you maintain your aquarium properly it requires little time to keep it looking beautiful. You hear people saying all of the time that up keep on a aquarium is a hard job. If you let it go for months before cleaning, maybe it is. With regular maintenance though, keeping an aquarium clean and functional is easy. Here are some tips I use to keep my aquariums in top notch shape.
1. Do not overfill with fish. Try not to put over one fish per gallon of water.
2. I have an algae eater fish for every five other fish in each tank. They keep the waste cleaned from the tank.
3. Change your filter at least every two months. This will enable it to filter the water for you and keep it clean.
4. About once every three months empty half of the water out of the aquarium and fill with new. Never empty all of the water out of the tank. There are many nutrients in the water by now that the fish need.
5. I always keep my aquarium water medicated with medication for the fish. They have many different types of medicine to keep your fish healthy.
6. Keep new fish separated from the fish you already have for at least two weeks. This way you don't put a diseased fish in with your healthy ones.
7. Keep the temperature in your aquarium the same all of the time, don't let it vary.
8. Keep clean gravel in your aquarium at all times. Usually if you change it every three months it will be alright.
9. Do not over feed the fish. This is the worst possible thing you can do. Try feeding the fish only about once every three days.
10. Only keep the aquarium's lights on during hours you are present. If you leave the lights on all of the time, it causes algae to grow in your tank.
I think if you follow these tips, in maintaining your aquarium, you will never have the problems of a dirty tank. Your fish will be healthier and you will be happier having such a beautiful looking aquarium.
Tips on maintaining an aquarium in your home.
It is nice to have an aquarium in your home. Just sitting and staring at the fish swimming around seems so peaceful. If you maintain your aquarium properly it requires little time to keep it looking beautiful. You hear people saying all of the time that up keep on a aquarium is a hard job. If you let it go for months before cleaning, maybe it is. With regular maintenance though, keeping an aquarium clean and functional is easy. Here are some tips I use to keep my aquariums in top notch shape.
1. Do not overfill with fish. Try not to put over one fish per gallon of water.
2. I have an algae eater fish for every five other fish in each tank. They keep the waste cleaned from the tank.
3. Change your filter at least every two months. This will enable it to filter the water for you and keep it clean.
4. About once every three months empty half of the water out of the aquarium and fill with new. Never empty all of the water out of the tank. There are many nutrients in the water by now that the fish need.
5. I always keep my aquarium water medicated with medication for the fish. They have many different types of medicine to keep your fish healthy.
6. Keep new fish separated from the fish you already have for at least two weeks. This way you don't put a diseased fish in with your healthy ones.
7. Keep the temperature in your aquarium the same all of the time, don't let it vary.
8. Keep clean gravel in your aquarium at all times. Usually if you change it every three months it will be alright.
9. Do not over feed the fish. This is the worst possible thing you can do. Try feeding the fish only about once every three days.
10. Only keep the aquarium's lights on during hours you are present. If you leave the lights on all of the time, it causes algae to grow in your tank.
I think if you follow these tips, in maintaining your aquarium, you will never have the problems of a dirty tank. Your fish will be healthier and you will be happier having such a beautiful looking aquarium.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Rock In Your Aquarium
Should You Put Live Rock In Your Aquarium?
What is live rock?
Why does it help your aquarium?
Should you get it for your tank?
Live rock is a system by which living organisms on rock help keep your aquarium clean and filtered. Bacteria, algae and other microorganisms do the work and can consume animal waste, produce oxygen, and give grazing fish a food center.
Where does it come from?
Most any ocean system produces live rock. Today, live rock harvesting in American waters is illegal and so most all live rock that you may buy comes from the Pacific ocean, specifically the island of Fiji.
What are the different types of live rock?
There are two types of live rock, cured and uncured. Cured simply has been rid of any decaying organisms that would be harmful to your tank, and therefore makes it more desirable.
Where can you get live rock?
It is illegal to harvest live rock in American waters so pretty much you are stuck finding a live rock dealer of some sort. Generally it is best to go to a reputable dealer to avoid problems. As well, it is possible to create your own by purchasing or finding a porous rock. After several months in your tank life will sprout on it that will begin to help filter your tank.
What is live rock?
Why does it help your aquarium?
Should you get it for your tank?
Live rock is a system by which living organisms on rock help keep your aquarium clean and filtered. Bacteria, algae and other microorganisms do the work and can consume animal waste, produce oxygen, and give grazing fish a food center.
Where does it come from?
Most any ocean system produces live rock. Today, live rock harvesting in American waters is illegal and so most all live rock that you may buy comes from the Pacific ocean, specifically the island of Fiji.
What are the different types of live rock?
There are two types of live rock, cured and uncured. Cured simply has been rid of any decaying organisms that would be harmful to your tank, and therefore makes it more desirable.
Where can you get live rock?
It is illegal to harvest live rock in American waters so pretty much you are stuck finding a live rock dealer of some sort. Generally it is best to go to a reputable dealer to avoid problems. As well, it is possible to create your own by purchasing or finding a porous rock. After several months in your tank life will sprout on it that will begin to help filter your tank.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Quarantine Your Sick Fish
Quarantine Your Sick Fish
Is quarantining a fish safe?
When should you do it?
How do you set up an effective quarantine tank?
Most people do not understand exactly what a quarantine tank is and how and when it should be used. A quarantine tank is not a tank you would set up when a fish gets sick, rather it is a tank that is always up and running. A quarantine tank can be used to acclimate new fish or separate a sick fish from the rest of the aquatic population.
What are the down sides of a quarantine tank?
If you are skilled or an expert in aquariums, you probably will not need to consider a quarantine tank. These people can spot diseases in fish early enough to treat it before the entire tank is wiped out. The rest of us are not as likely to detect these diseases before the damage is already done. A quarantine tank is not cheap. However, the cost of renewing your tank with all new fish will definitely cost more.
Why quarantine a new fish?
The transport from the pet store to your tank causes a great deal of stress in a fish. This is one reason to quarantine; the fish needs time to adjust to its new home before it is introduced to other fish. The quarantine will also allow you to monitor the new fish for any diseases that may pose a threat to the other fish. Most people recommend a quarantine period of about two to three weeks. If you notice any abnormalities, keep them separated longer.
Why quarantine a sick fish?
With your existing fish you want to watch signs of sickness such as sluggishness or lack of appetite. Color change is also a sign of illness. Getting to know your fish could really help you in noticing symptoms of sickness in your fish. Catching a diseased fish early and quarantining it could stop the spread of the disease to other fish in your tank. While in the quarantine tank the sick fish can get better without stress or harassment from other fish.
Is quarantining a fish safe?
When should you do it?
How do you set up an effective quarantine tank?
Most people do not understand exactly what a quarantine tank is and how and when it should be used. A quarantine tank is not a tank you would set up when a fish gets sick, rather it is a tank that is always up and running. A quarantine tank can be used to acclimate new fish or separate a sick fish from the rest of the aquatic population.
What are the down sides of a quarantine tank?
If you are skilled or an expert in aquariums, you probably will not need to consider a quarantine tank. These people can spot diseases in fish early enough to treat it before the entire tank is wiped out. The rest of us are not as likely to detect these diseases before the damage is already done. A quarantine tank is not cheap. However, the cost of renewing your tank with all new fish will definitely cost more.
Why quarantine a new fish?
The transport from the pet store to your tank causes a great deal of stress in a fish. This is one reason to quarantine; the fish needs time to adjust to its new home before it is introduced to other fish. The quarantine will also allow you to monitor the new fish for any diseases that may pose a threat to the other fish. Most people recommend a quarantine period of about two to three weeks. If you notice any abnormalities, keep them separated longer.
Why quarantine a sick fish?
With your existing fish you want to watch signs of sickness such as sluggishness or lack of appetite. Color change is also a sign of illness. Getting to know your fish could really help you in noticing symptoms of sickness in your fish. Catching a diseased fish early and quarantining it could stop the spread of the disease to other fish in your tank. While in the quarantine tank the sick fish can get better without stress or harassment from other fish.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Aquarium Fish Diseases
Aquarium Fish Diseases
What fish ailments do you need to look out for?
How do you heal your sick fish?
Often, detecting illness in your fish is very difficult. However, because disease spreads quickly in tanks it is necessary to spot illness quickly and separate an ill fish from others. Hospital tanks are as expensive as one might think and they also guarantee the safety of other fish. When a diseased fish is spotted it should either be destroyed or placed in a hospital tank. Also, new fish can be acclimated to new environments using hospital tanks, and this will also serve to make sure the fish harbors no diseases.
What are some symptoms and diseases to look for?
The most common disease in saltwater tanks is Ick. Ick are free swimming parasites that literally eat fish alive. Symptoms of Ick include white spots on scales, gills or heads of fish, strange swimming motions, decreased appetite, and change in breathing habits (the fish struggles to obtain oxygen). Treatment can either be to remove the fish that display symptoms, or treating the water in the tank with a solution from a pet store.
Marine Velvet is quite similar to Ick, however, the main difference being its elongated life span. There are a number of other parasites that can attack your fish, usually you may diagnose them if your fish rubs against rocks, swims awkwardly, secretes slime or has open sores, clouded eyes, or there may even be white worms hanging out of the fish. Some cases can be treated with antibiotics, but usually the fish must be destroyed.
Lateral Line Erosion is a disease that causes facial erosion and pits in the skin. Its primary symptom is loss of interest in food, and an antibiotic food can help to cure it.
Finrot is a disease that occurs primarily due to poor water maintenance. Its symptoms are fin erosion that leads to hampered swimming and reddened areas on the fish's body.
Disease and parasites are remarkably harmful to your fish, be sure and monitor their condition regularly and provide a very sanitary environment for avoidance. Give your fish a good diet with vitamins to held them ward off disease, and always keep a hospital tank available in case of any problems.
What fish ailments do you need to look out for?
How do you heal your sick fish?
Often, detecting illness in your fish is very difficult. However, because disease spreads quickly in tanks it is necessary to spot illness quickly and separate an ill fish from others. Hospital tanks are as expensive as one might think and they also guarantee the safety of other fish. When a diseased fish is spotted it should either be destroyed or placed in a hospital tank. Also, new fish can be acclimated to new environments using hospital tanks, and this will also serve to make sure the fish harbors no diseases.
What are some symptoms and diseases to look for?
The most common disease in saltwater tanks is Ick. Ick are free swimming parasites that literally eat fish alive. Symptoms of Ick include white spots on scales, gills or heads of fish, strange swimming motions, decreased appetite, and change in breathing habits (the fish struggles to obtain oxygen). Treatment can either be to remove the fish that display symptoms, or treating the water in the tank with a solution from a pet store.
Marine Velvet is quite similar to Ick, however, the main difference being its elongated life span. There are a number of other parasites that can attack your fish, usually you may diagnose them if your fish rubs against rocks, swims awkwardly, secretes slime or has open sores, clouded eyes, or there may even be white worms hanging out of the fish. Some cases can be treated with antibiotics, but usually the fish must be destroyed.
Lateral Line Erosion is a disease that causes facial erosion and pits in the skin. Its primary symptom is loss of interest in food, and an antibiotic food can help to cure it.
Finrot is a disease that occurs primarily due to poor water maintenance. Its symptoms are fin erosion that leads to hampered swimming and reddened areas on the fish's body.
Disease and parasites are remarkably harmful to your fish, be sure and monitor their condition regularly and provide a very sanitary environment for avoidance. Give your fish a good diet with vitamins to held them ward off disease, and always keep a hospital tank available in case of any problems.
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