Thursday, March 19, 2009

Caring For Your Goldfish

Caring For Your Goldfish

Care information about keeping goldfish as pets.
Goldfish are undemanding, cheap to feed and pretty to look at, which makes them popular pets. However a lot of owners don't know how to keep them healthy and happy.

First of all, when buying goldfish, you shouldn't let them be placed in those small water-filled plastic bags as these do not hold enough water or oxygen, so the fish usually dies soon afterwards. Because goldfish thrive on a good oxygen supply, you should buy a regtangular aquarium with a large water surface area, avoiding traditional round goldfish bowls. The aquarium should also have a glass cover with a gap of a few cenimetres for air exchange. Try to place the aquarium in a bright area that receives at least an hour's direct sunlight a day. The water must be kept unpolluted with a neutral pH range (between 6.8 and 7.2). Unfiltered aquariums should have the water partially changed several times a week; fltered tanks only need to have this done once a month. If you use tap water, let is stand in another container for about 45 days or buy some de-chlorinating tablets.

The greatest cause of death in goldfish is overfeeding. Only feed your fish what they can eat within five minutes and remove any leftover food. The average goldfish should be fed once a day with a pinch of fish food.

Sick fish are easy to spot. They will sit on the bottom of the tank, their fins and tails drooping, swim on their sides or even float upside down. Diseases can be caused by lack of filtration, incorrect water pH, dirty water, overcrowding and rough handling. Goldfish are also particularly sensitive to changes in their environment. Substances such as sprays, nicotene and new paint will harm the goldfish. If you suspect that your fish is sick take it to the vet and keep it in isolation to prevent the disease from spreading.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish

Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish

The Siamese Fighting Fish, or Betta splendens, are bubble-nesters that breed by collecting and tending to their eggs in bubbles at the aquarium's water surface. The Betta splendens or the Siamese Fighting Fish tropical freshwater aquarium fishes that are known and bred for their exotically colorful finnage. As "labyrinth" fishes, also known as Anabantids, they have the capability to breathe air and survive in what would normally be considered unpleasant habitats such as filter-less, non-aerated tanks, or even individual jars. This preferred solo existence, however, is actually for their own health and safety because in a community, Betta males will seek each other and fight to death.

Most labyrinth fishes, the Betta included, are bubble-nesters. To successfully breed the Betta, you need an average-sized aquarium that is very lightly aerated and heavily planted with vegetation reaching up to the surface. Floating plants with trailing roots will also serve the purpose because the fish will build their bubble-nests among the plants close to the water surface. The plants will hold the bubble-nest in place.

Use a tight-fitting cover for the tank so that humidity remains high at the surface. The humidity will prevent the bubble-nest and eggs from drying up.

At breeding time, the male Betta chooses a small area among the plants at the water surface to build a nest. He gulps air through his mouth and expels them in the water through his gills. The expelled bubbles are covered with sticky mucus; they float upwards (but don't pop), and remain held together, afloat, by the plant leaves.

The male then courts a female and lures her under the bubble nest. When the female is ready, the pair engages in a tumbling embrace where eggs and milt are released into the water. Betta eggs are heavy so they sink to the bottom. As soon as the male recovers from the embrace, he goes about catching the eggs with his mouth and depositing them into the bubble nest. The female joins the male in collecting the eggs, after which, they resume spawning. The tumbling, spawning, and egg-catching activity lasts for several hours, giving rise to a nest of about 200 to 300 eggs.

After spawning, the male assumes its paternal role: to watch over the nest and pick a fight with whoever comes near, including the female. At this point, the female should be removed from the breeding tank.

The male will continue to reinforce the bubble nest, diligently returning eggs that fall off or float away back into the cluster. In two to four days, the fry will emerge. The male must be removed at this point, because he will tend to consider the small fishes as food. The fry should then be fed with infusoria or any appropriate fine-powdered fry food.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Breeding Guppies

Breeding Guppies

Breeding Guppies is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment.
Is Breeding Guppies the hobby for you?

Learn more.
Pet care is an awesome responsibility even with tiny pets such as guppies. The breeding of guppies is an even larger commitment. It requires a serious outlook and should not be taken lightly.

The initial consideration is space. Guppies are relatively easy to breed compared to other animals; however, it is essential to have plenty of room in your home or apartment to accommodate the equipment needed. The secret is to start small. Expansion should be expected if there is success.

In addition to the initial tank, two more aquariums, one for each sex, each with the capacity of 15 to 20 gallons, should be prepared for the young guppies. Keeping the sexes separate from the earliest possible time allows guppies to be nurtured to maturity and more easily and selectively bred. A series of additional ten-gallon aquariums should be maintained, too, so you can separate guppies of certain desired color patterns that appear from time to time. Each tank will require all the necessary equipment that is normally needed in a single tank, such as proper lighting, heating, and a filtration system.

Once you've set up the equipment, shop for your first breeding guppies. The requirement is a virgin female neither too young nor too old. The male should be as close to the female's age as possible. Start them off on a conditioned diet of white worms, live or frozen foods, mosquito larvae, and brine shrimp, with a daily addition of high quality dry food.

Observe the male and female in their new environment. The male at this point is almost always swimming around the female in an elaborate display, spreading his fins before the female, seeking her attention. It may seem that copulation occurs many times. Guppy copulation occurs when the male touches its forward protruding copulatory fin to the female's genital area.

If all goes as planned, a fertilized guppy female will produce a new batch of fry approximately every four weeks, if kept warm, with as many as five litters being produced as a result of a single mating.

The first sign that a female is about to give birth is her gravid spot on her belly. It begins to appear darker in color. The gravid spot gets darker and moves down the female's body toward her vent. At this point, remove the female from the tank very carefully and place her in the previously prepared separate aquarium with large masses of floating plants.

Young guppies are usually born head first, emerging from their mother's genital opening in a curled position. They will uncurl almost immediately after they are born and will make their way to the surface, where their swim bladders are filled with air for the first time. The best time to net them is when they begin to near the surface.

As soon after birth as possible, remove the female guppy to another aquarium by herself. While well-fed guppies do not usually feed on their own young, it is always best to play it safe.

Observe the new fry for at least a week. Fry food is available at pet stores. It is powdery in nature, so avoid over-feeding as this has a tendency to clog the filter. If you observe any deformed guppies, remove them immediately.

It is possible to begin determining the sexes and separating the fry after the initial week. Experts have a procedure for "sexing" the fry that is easily reproduced by a home enthusiast.

First, you will need a two-gallon aquarium and a piece of black cardboard that can cover the back of the aquarium. Cut a hole about 1/2 inch in the center of the cardboard and place it on the back of the aquarium. Place a small lamp with a frosted 100-watt bulb directly behind the hole. Using the water from the aquarium containing the new fry, fill the two-gallon tank. Carefully remove two or three fry from the tank and put them in the sexing tank. Wait until early evening when the sun is dim, and using a magnifying glass, observe the guppy as it swims through the beam of light. Under these specialized conditions, the gravid spot of the females can be detected. Males will not have this spot. Segregate the males and females.

After 4 to 6 weeks, you should be able to see if any of the fry are displaying unusual color designs that greatly vary from the parents. If you are seriously working toward developing an unusual color strain, these should be segregated into a smaller tank of about ten gallons.

Among guppy breeding enthusiasts, there is great honor bestowed on those who are able to produce a male and female strain of guppies whose color and markings are closely matched. For this reason, it is also recommended that you study body coloration and spots on fins of the females.

After six months, the time has come to choose a couple of females who have developed well-shaped bodies, fins, and coloration. Observe them and remove them carefully from the tank. Place two females in another aquarium with the male you have chosen. Lower the net carefully into the water and allow the guppies to swim out on their own. Never drop them as this can cause undo stress. At this point, the process of breeding starts all over again.

If your interest is serious, experts suggest acquiring new stock from sources different from where you acquired your original stock. In this manner, there is a possibility of creating a hybrid.

Breeding guppies is not for everyone. It is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment. If breeding guppies isn't the answer, guppies make wonderful pets without the need to breed them. Both are fun.

Friday, March 13, 2009

The Angelfish

The Angelfish

The angelfish is the most colorful fish of the tropical oceans. The are various species. The angelfish is a most colorful creature. He is among the many marine animals that live in the underwater coral reefs. The angelfish can be found in all parts of the world. They are usually found in tropical or sub tropical oceans. They live among the coral reefs.

There are seventy-two different species of the angelfish. Each a masterpiece of color and style. The blue lipped emperor and the blue angelfish are considered the most colorful of all angelfish. The angelfish with its different shapes, sizes and colors light up the oceans, where they make their home.

The angelfish will travel single or in a small group. They establish their own feeding territories, and are aggressive in defending them against their own kind and others. If others come near, they flaunt themselves, where the intruder knows whose space he is invading. The intruder will usually leave without incident.

The diet of the angelfish varies with each species. Some of the species eat plankton, algae and plants. The larger species eat worms, shrimp and shellfish. Some are known to eat coral polyp, which are tiny animals that live as part of the reef. Angelfish are known to change sex as they mature. The groups of angelfish consist of one male and his harem of females. When the male dies the strongest, female changes sex, to become the leading male. She or He becomes the defender and fertilizes all the eggs.

When angelfish breed the male and female head toward the surface of it tropical habitat. The female quickly lays eggs and the male fertilizes them. The eggs are left to float out to sea, most do not survive. The eggs, transform into larvae, which when floating locates new coral and attaches itself. They feed from the reef, and develop rapidly.

Angelfish are not an endangered species. Most pollution in some of their habitats could cause decreasing populations.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Caring For Baby Fish

Caring For Baby Fish

What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when your fish have babies? How do you help them grow up to be healthy adults?
Baby fish are known as "fry". Typically healthy adult fish will breed on some sort of cycle so sooner or later you will have to care for fry to some extent. Fry are very vulnerable and few survive to grow up, although there are ways for you to maximize you success rate.

Separate tanks:
Most experts recommend moving pregnant fish into a separate tank, however usually you are unaware of your fish's maternal status. Just keep an extra tank around so that if fry appear you can evacuate them immediately. Make sure the new tank looks very similar to their destination environment and that pH levels are similar so your fry can adjust.

New home, better lighting:
A couple of factors will need to change in the fry's tank, specifically lighting. Bright lighting will encourage you fry to be active and when active they will eat more. The fry need the extra food to grow so keep a steady light on your fish.

New home, different filter:
Fry have a tendency to get caught in filters so try and under gravel or sponge filter as a precautionary measure.

New food:
Notice how your fry are born; if hatched the best food choices are artemia or infusoria. When the fish are larger ask a pet store employee what food best fits your purpose.

Weekly care:
Just like your adult tank make sure to test and check water temperature and chemistry regularly. Fry are even more susceptible to sudden changes and need a stable environment. Make sure to remove dead fish and ammonia every day. If you take good care of your fry and your adult fish you may very well have a large family of pets in no time.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Damselfish In Aquarium

Damselfish In Aquarium

What do aquarium dmaselfish looklike?
How do they behave?
Everything you need to know about Damselfish?
What do they look like?

Damselfish can be some of the brightest colored fish in the sea. They are generally found in vivid colors of oranges, yellows, reds, and blues. You'll see them in solid colors and in white or black stripes. You'll even see them striped with a variety of their main colors. But all of the damselfish's markings are brilliant. The smaller these fish are, the more amazing their colors are. When these fish grow larger, their colors tend to fade a bit. Damselfish are oval-shaped and have large, beautiful fins. Their fins are often rounded, and their bodies are longer than they are wide. Their dorsal fins typically have about a dozen spines and a dozen sectioned rays. They are covered with reasonable-sized scales across their bodies. The have small mouths and their teeth are tiny and form the shape of a spoon.

How do they behave?

These fish like to live along the bottoms of bodies of water. They like to find a place to hide out to call home. This is generally a nook or cranny along the bottom of the ocean, such as a coral reef. This serves as a place to go when they feel threatened. They themselves, however, are also quite predatorial. When they see a sea creature they'd like for dinner, they don't waste any time or energy. They attack and bite the fish and let out fairly loud grunts.

What should you know about them?
When these fish spawn, the males in the bunch build nests. They clear rocky areas of vegetation, where the females lay between 50 and 1,000 eggs. Male damselfish protect the nest until they hatch about a week later.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Keep Hermit Crabs And Snails In Your Home Aquarium

Should You Keep Hermit Crabs And Snails In Your Home Aquarium?

Are hermit crabs and snails safe for your tank?
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when housing crabs and snails in your aquarium?

Hermit crabs and snails can be a wonderful addition to any aquarium because of their janitorial tendencies. However, you need to keep in mind the demands of your system as to what sort of hermit or snail to purchase.

What are hermit crabs?
A hermit crab has three legs, which separates it from true crabs with four. Their bodies are vulnerable and therefore they provide their own shelter in the form of a shell, which you will have to provide them.

How do you select a hermit crab?
When it comes to purchasing a hermit size is probably the most important factor. Make sure that your hermit is small enough to get at the hard to reach algae you cannot clean, and also small enough so as to not pose a threat to your fish.

Which hermit crabs should you avoid?

Large hermit crabs such as Anemone Carrying Hermit, Yellow Hairy Hermit, Cone Shell Hermit, and Striped Hermit should be avoided.

Which hermit crabs are OK to buy?

The Scarlet Hermit is colorful and eats algae well, however they can get expensive. The Left Handed Hermit is very small and perfect for a tank with many small crevices. The Red Legged Hermit is also very small and eats slime algae. The Blue Legged Hermit is very small but can kill snails, so stay away snail owners!

How do you select a snail for your tank?
For snails, the pH level of your tank is probably the most important factor. Soft water can wreak havoc on a snail's shell, so make sure you are aware of your snail environment.

Which snails should you avoid?
Pond, Mystery, or Colombian Ramshorn snails consume egregious amounts of plants, so unless you have plant life to spare in your tank, stay away.

Which snails should you buy?
Astraea snails are famous for taking algae from rock surfaces. Pipipi snails are also good in rocky environments. Turbo, Malaysian Trumpet, and Ramshorn snails in general eat lots of algae, and the Apple snail only eats algae or dead fish.

In general just make sure before introducing a new pet into your aquarium environment that both the existing inhabitants and the newcomer will be able to thrive in their shared space.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Seahorse And Your Aquarium

Seahorse And Your Aquarium

Can you keep seahorses in the same aquarium as your fish?
What's their natural habitat?
How do you take care of seahorses?

Seahorses posess a beauty that is both mythical and bewitching. These qualities draw many fans but maintaining a high quality of life for the seahorses can be exceptionally high maintaince. Seahorses are sparsely strewn about the vast ocean. This must be taken into consideration when shopping for one for you salt water tank. There should be no more than two seahorses in a 100 liter tank. Seahorses are territorial and any more than this amounmt could spur competition and the feeling that their homes are being invaded.

You really need to learn all the ins and outs of owning a seahorse before owning one. They require quite a bit of different kinds of live food. They'll need you to buy them brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, mysiad shrimp, and enriched Artemia. Some of these products are difficult to find, if you don't know where to look. Each of these different types of fish may be available in frozen form from a seafood dealer. You can ask your local aquatic expert for more information about dealers in your area.

Seahorses not only require a lot of different types of seafood, they require it often. You'll have to feed them these different types of shrimps at least twice a day. When shopping for a seahorse remember, same sex pairs are acceptable, but placing a female and a male in the same tank allows for less competitive nature and procreation. Seahorses primarly inhabit tropical reef regions so placing them in a reef like environment is best to ensure maximum quality of life .

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Aquarium Frogs

Aquarium Frogs

Aquarium frogs need good homes - how do you set up the right aquarium that's best for your particular frog?
The home you chose for your frog is the most important decision you will make while owning your little friend. It should be a place where they will enjoy living in, which means something close or resembling their natural habitat. You need to find that a tank that will provide your frog with the best living standards.

What kind of housing should you provide for your your frog?
There exist many different types of frog. You need to know what kind of environment you frog would usually live in to design it's habitat
appropriately. Dry land frogs need a dry tank. Water frogs need an aquatic set-up. Tree frogs need high limbs and branches to climb on. Then again, some frogs need both aquatic and dry land aspects to their tanks.

The normal sized frog can live comfortably in a twenty gallon tank. For bigger frogs you will need a bigger tank. For more than one frog, you will need a much bigger tank. The should also provide ample light. A fluorescent lighting is suggested for almost all frogs.
For aquatic frogs you may want to consider heating the water. Almost all water frogs prefer a warm, humid environment. For land frogs you can keep the conditions at room temperature. For the most part, these frogs will live comfortably in the temperature you choose to live in.

When considering a flooring for your frog's tank, stay away from pebbles or wood shavings. The frog will eat the smaller pieces of these floorings. Pine chips will suffice however, potting soil or sand will allow to plant small trees and other plants that your frog will likely enjoy. Moss will keep the tank damp, something that even the land frogs will enjoy. The last thing to consider it providing a hiding place for your frog. In a captive setting the frog will want a place to itself, where it cannot be seen. A good haven for a frog is a hollow log. Any type of wood will do. As long as the frog can fit inside of it it will do just fine and your frog will much happier

Sunday, March 1, 2009

How To Breed Livebearing Tropical Fishes

How To Breed Livebearing Tropical Fishes

Livebearing freshwater tropical fishes like Guppies, Swordtails, Platies and Mollies breed by giving birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming young. Livebearing tropical fishes as so called because they do not lay eggs. They give birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming fry. Examples of livebearers are the Guppies, Swordtails, Platies, and Mollies.

The eggs of livebearers are fertilized and develop inside the body of the female, making the count of offspring relatively low – up to 50 per spawning. However, livebearing females have a unique capability to store sperm, which allows them to develop several successive broods from just one mating session.

The male has a gonopodium, a sex organ derived from several rays of the anal fin. When mating, the male directs its gonopodium towards the female and while briefly attached to the partner's cloaca, the gonopodium releases and channels sperms into the female. Once fertilized, female livebearers will nonchalantly give birth to their fry even in a community aquarium, with successive broods born as often as monthly. Unfortunately, the fry, being very small, become easy prey for other fishes, including their "parents". Fine-leaved plants offer good hiding places for the newly born, but not very many will survive to adulthood in a well-populated fish community. Which is why a specialized breeding tank is recommended for livebearing species.

Transfer the female, when she's about ready to drop her young, to a breeding aquarium rigged with breeding traps (plastic ones are commercially available) that will separate and safeguard the young. You can use layers of fine-leaved plants or patches of Java Moss where the offspring can hide. After the female delivers her brood, return her to the community

Friday, February 27, 2009

Tropical Aquarium Plants

How To Care For Tropical Aquarium Plants

Tropical aquarium plants should be cared for with proper lighting, regular fertilizing and grooming, and regular water changes.
The fish and live plants in your tropical freshwater aquarium rely on each other for health and nutrition. But because they are in a closed environment, they also rely on the diligence of their caretaker. So, just as you would care for the well-being of your fishes, you must also take diligent care of your aquatic plants. Here are some tips to remember:

1. Provide the right amount of light. Most aquatic plants require about 10 to 12 hours of light exposure in order to thrive. Some need intense light (which is not the same as prolonged exposure) for proper growth. Research on the specific requirements of the plants you've chosen so that you can determine what type of lighting is appropriate.

2. Do regular check-ups and plant grooming.
Trim dead or damaged leaves and branches, propagate by cutting or separating new growth, and remove plant-eating snails.

3. Fertilize.
Aquatic plant fertilizers that are rich in nutrients like iron and potassium are available as pellets and in liquid form. Follow the product instructions on the quantity, schedule, and manner of applying these fertilizers.

4. Change some of the water.
Aquarium plants play an active role in the tank's nitrogen cycle, but sometimes the water composition degrades into one that is not highly beneficial to plants anymore, in which case, refresh the quality of the environment by changing up to 20 percent of the tank water every couple of weeks. Be sure to de-chlorinate and check the temperature of the new water before introducing it into the tank.

5. Avoid introducing elements that are toxic to the plants.
The standard manner of treating fish ailments is by dropping medication directly into the water. Unfortunately, many fish medications are harmful to plants, because they can affect leaf coloring and absorption of nutrients. Never pour anti-chlorine and water conditioners directly on the plants. When medicating fish, transfer them to an unplanted tank.

6. Be aware of indications of poor maintenance.
When the tank's conditions are less than ideal, you will see the effects on the plant leaves. Pale and widely spaced leaf growth is a sign of poor or insufficient light. Blackening of the leaves indicates pollution. Yellowing of the leaves is a sign of lack of nutrients like iron. And holes or damage indicates the presence of either snails or vegetarian fish. Attend to these distress signs immediately so that your aquarium garden will always be in good health.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Aquarium Substrates For Healthy Fish

Aquarium Substrates For Healthy Fish

How can you make your fish feel most at home in your tank?
What kinds of substrates should you put in the bottom of your tank to improve your fish's lives?
Any pet owner wants to accommodate their pet within reason, and in general you want your pet to enjoy their environment. You aquarium substrate is a huge facet of your fish's immediate surroundings and can be either harmful or great for your fish. Because your fish will want this medium for hiding out in, or even laying eggs it is necessary to try and find the right substrate.

What type
First, keep in mind that your fish will come into contact with your substrate regularly. For this reason you should try and get smooth surfaced objects that won't scratch or cut your fish's skin. Also, you want something rather substantial in size, smaller objects can cause all sorts of problems such as getting sucked into the air filter etc.
Color is also important. You want your fish to feel at home so research where they might hang out in nature. While typically fish live in darker earthy toned environments ask a pet store employee about it just in case.

What you should avoid
In general avoid substrates that you don't know a whole lot about. Go to a good pet store to make sure you know all about what you are putting into your tank. Problems such as bacteria growth, mineral and lime deposits can all have a negative affect on you fish's environment.

Maintenance

Make sure and only put the amount of substrate in that you need. If your filter is under gravel then three or four inches is appropriate, if the filter doesn't pull waste and food from the bottom keep a thin layer. Make sure and also clean your substrate regularly. Cleansing can be accomplished by simply putting it in a strainer and running cold water over it. Do so before you put it into the tank after buying it as well.

Monday, February 23, 2009

How To Add New Fish To Your Aquarium

How To Add New Fish To Your Aquarium

What's the best way to add new fish to your aquarium to maintain the health of your existing fish and get your new fish acclimated? What are the right ways to do this?
What are the wrong ways?
Do you need to quarantine?

Most experts say quarantining is necessary. This will allow time for your fish to adjust and will allow time to make sure your fish are healthy. The last thing you want to do is put a sick fish in your tank and make all your fish ill.

What should you look for?
You need to look for fin and tail rot, fungal infections and ich. Fin and tail rot is one of the most common. It can spread quickly to other fish. If you see any signs, you will want to get an antibiotic quickly.

Fungal infections are growths of fungus on your fish's body or lips. If you see the white growths, purchase an antibiotic treatment.

Ich can look like fungus but is caused by parasites. To tell the difference, look for small, round white spots. If you see them, go ahead and raise the temperature in your tank. Also, purchase medicine. Both will help cure your fish.

When should you put the new fish in your tank?
If your new fish does not show any signs of sickness in two weeks you can transfer it to your tank. Some experts suggest moving fish at night when other fish might be asleep. That way, there will be less confrontation between the new and old fish.

How do you prepare the tank?
The new fish will want places to hide, so add rocks or pots to your aquarium. You will also need to maintain pH levels as usual. A new fish will be particularly sensitive to changing levels.

How do you move the fish?
Put the fish in a plastic bag with water from the quarantine tank. Then, put the bag in the regular tank. Slowly let the bag fill with the new water. The fish will swim out naturally.

It is even more important now to watch the pH levels in your tank. Adding fish will surge the ammonia levels. That is why you should not add any more than two fish to your aquarium at a time. For awhile, you might want to check the pH levels more than once a week. Once you see that the tank has stabilized, you can check less often.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Choosing Aquarium Fish

Choosing Aquarium Fish

Choosing aquarium fish: Which ones are the easiest to care for? Which ones are the most difficult? Which ones should you avoid?
You've chosen to buy fish as pets, but aren't quite sure which ones to get once you get the store. It's an important decision because, while fish at first glance appear to be simple creatures to care for, there are many fish that can actually be too much for many beginners to handle.

What are some good fish for beginners?


Betas
This species is one of the few types of fish that actually enjoys living in bowls. So if you know you don't have space for a large aquarium, betas are one type you should consider. Betas are colorful fish and have long graceful fins.

Tetras
These fish are easy to care for. They are colorful and enjoy having plenty of other tetras around. One down side to Tetras is that they are known to sometimes carry diseases that only their species can carry. Be sure you buy healthy fish.

Guppies
Guppies are small fish, and you can house a lot of them in a small space. They're great for children, as they are among the easiest fish to care for. One thing you need to watch out for with guppies, however, is that they breed easily. Once you have a few guppies in your tank or bowl, it won't be long before they'll multiply in number.

What are some bad fish for beginners?


Mollies
These fish are complex to care for. They require higher pH water levels and warmer water temperatures than most other fish.

Eels
Eels are creatures that need a lot of space. While they look like they'd be easy to care for, they usually are not. Also, it doesn't take much for an eel to become stressed, and if you don't know what symptoms to look for, it can prove dangerous for your eel.

Piranhas

Piranhas are complicated to care for and require a lot of space. They eat quite a bit of food, and their food can be expensive. So while it may sound cool to own a piranha, it may not be a good idea for a beginning fish owner.

Selecting Fish For Your Aquarium

Selecting Fish For Your Aquarium

Tips and techniques on selecting the proper fish for your aquarium.
Once you have your aquarium completely set up in your home, it is time to decide what fish to put in it. There are many different tropical fish on the market. There are also fish that are good with other fish and ones that are not.

Here are a few tips for choosing fish for your aquarium.

1. I like to purchase my fish at a small pet store instead of a large chain store. The fish seem healthier and most of the time, cheaper. I feel that the pet store fish have been better taken care of.

2. Make sure the fish you choose will interact with each other. Some fish are social and others will kill each other. If you want these aggressive fish, be sure to keep them by themselves.

3. You also need to decide whether you are purchasing fresh or salt water fish. They each require different aquarium set ups.

4. Always pick the fish that seem most active in the tank. You don't want to purchase a sick fish.

5. Don't overcrowd your aquarium. I recommend one fish per gallon of water.

6. Don't purchase small and large fish together. Try to get fish pretty much the same size.

7. When you purchase new fish keep them away from the others a few days to monitor them for diseases.

I hope these tips will be helpful to you when you go to purchase fish for your aquarium. Just keep your aquarium cleaned and filtered properly, and you should have no trouble at all with your fish.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Setting Up A Simple Aquarium At Home

Setting Up A Simple Aquarium At Home

How to set up a simple Fresh water Aquarium at home and maintain it to enjoy the beauty of nature in close quarters.
Watching colorful fish swaying is enjoyable. Everyone loves to have an aquarium at home. A fresh water aquarium is a miniature water-world. Creating it at home is fun.

To setup an aquarium at home select a place where there is no direct sunlight. Buy a medium sized glass tank. Larger the tank minimum is your maintenance problem. The tank should be fitted with a cover or hood. Fix a fluorescent tube in it. This total set up is readily available with aquarium shops.

The bottom of the tank can be filled up to 2 inches height with coarse river sand. Avoid using pebbles or stones to fill up, as dirt will settle between them and maintenance will be difficult. The river sand should be washed thoroughly 15 to 20 times till the water poured on it stays clear. Only soft water should be used.

First fill only one third of the tank with water. Introduce ornamental items like a few big pebbles and driftwoods – woods that you find on the riversides. These are only optional to add up to the beauty of the aquarium. Plant firmly on the sand, fresh water plants like Vallisneria, Amazon Sword and Lace Plant. These can be bought from aquarists. Fill up the rest of the tank with water and allow it to settle down for three to four days.

Buy healthy fish, which can stay together in a community tank like Guppies, Mollies, Swordtails, Tetras, Angelfish and Gold Fish. A few scavengers like Loaches & Catfish can be added. Fish brought in plastic bags from the shop should be floated on the surface of the tank for at least 15 minutes to equalize the temperature of water. Avoid overcrowding. Allow one and half liters of water for every 1cm. Length of fish. To calculate the liters of water in the tank multiply length by height by width in cms. And divide by 1000. Then 10% has to be deducted for the sand, plants and decorative materials.

Feeding should be done once or twice a day. It is best to buy the fish food pellets available in aquarium shops. Food given should be consumed within two to three minutes. Watch and feed carefully. Any excess food should be removed. Otherwise it will cloud the water. The lights should be kept on, throughout the day to enable the plants to grow. Artificial plants can be substituted for natural ones or both can also be mixed.

Once in three weeks the glasses should be cleaned with a scrubber to remove any formation of algae. The dirt collected at the bottom on top of the sand should be siphoned out with the help of a thin bore tube. Amount of water removed should be replaced gently without disturbing much. Only once in 6 to 7 months the total set up should be thoroughly washed, cleaned and reset after removing the fish first with the help of a net to another container.

A fresh water aquarium set with bright colored fish, evergreen plants and light brightens up the home. It is a silent beautiful nature. Young and old enjoy watching it. Watching it reduces one's stress, tension and even blood pressure. It is a creation, which gives tremendous satisfaction and happiness. It takes you closer to nature.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Maintaining A Home Aquarium

Maintaining A Home Aquarium

Tips on maintaining an aquarium in your home.
It is nice to have an aquarium in your home. Just sitting and staring at the fish swimming around seems so peaceful. If you maintain your aquarium properly it requires little time to keep it looking beautiful. You hear people saying all of the time that up keep on a aquarium is a hard job. If you let it go for months before cleaning, maybe it is. With regular maintenance though, keeping an aquarium clean and functional is easy. Here are some tips I use to keep my aquariums in top notch shape.

1. Do not overfill with fish. Try not to put over one fish per gallon of water.

2. I have an algae eater fish for every five other fish in each tank. They keep the waste cleaned from the tank.

3. Change your filter at least every two months. This will enable it to filter the water for you and keep it clean.

4. About once every three months empty half of the water out of the aquarium and fill with new. Never empty all of the water out of the tank. There are many nutrients in the water by now that the fish need.

5. I always keep my aquarium water medicated with medication for the fish. They have many different types of medicine to keep your fish healthy.

6. Keep new fish separated from the fish you already have for at least two weeks. This way you don't put a diseased fish in with your healthy ones.

7. Keep the temperature in your aquarium the same all of the time, don't let it vary.

8. Keep clean gravel in your aquarium at all times. Usually if you change it every three months it will be alright.

9. Do not over feed the fish. This is the worst possible thing you can do. Try feeding the fish only about once every three days.

10. Only keep the aquarium's lights on during hours you are present. If you leave the lights on all of the time, it causes algae to grow in your tank.

I think if you follow these tips, in maintaining your aquarium, you will never have the problems of a dirty tank. Your fish will be healthier and you will be happier having such a beautiful looking aquarium.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Rock In Your Aquarium

Should You Put Live Rock In Your Aquarium?

What is live rock?
Why does it help your aquarium?
Should you get it for your tank?
Live rock is a system by which living organisms on rock help keep your aquarium clean and filtered. Bacteria, algae and other microorganisms do the work and can consume animal waste, produce oxygen, and give grazing fish a food center.

Where does it come from?
Most any ocean system produces live rock. Today, live rock harvesting in American waters is illegal and so most all live rock that you may buy comes from the Pacific ocean, specifically the island of Fiji.

What are the different types of live rock?

There are two types of live rock, cured and uncured. Cured simply has been rid of any decaying organisms that would be harmful to your tank, and therefore makes it more desirable.

Where can you get live rock?
It is illegal to harvest live rock in American waters so pretty much you are stuck finding a live rock dealer of some sort. Generally it is best to go to a reputable dealer to avoid problems. As well, it is possible to create your own by purchasing or finding a porous rock. After several months in your tank life will sprout on it that will begin to help filter your tank.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Quarantine Your Sick Fish

Quarantine Your Sick Fish


Is quarantining a fish safe?
When should you do it?
How do you set up an effective quarantine tank?

Most people do not understand exactly what a quarantine tank is and how and when it should be used. A quarantine tank is not a tank you would set up when a fish gets sick, rather it is a tank that is always up and running. A quarantine tank can be used to acclimate new fish or separate a sick fish from the rest of the aquatic population.

What are the down sides of a quarantine tank?

If you are skilled or an expert in aquariums, you probably will not need to consider a quarantine tank. These people can spot diseases in fish early enough to treat it before the entire tank is wiped out. The rest of us are not as likely to detect these diseases before the damage is already done. A quarantine tank is not cheap. However, the cost of renewing your tank with all new fish will definitely cost more.

Why quarantine a new fish?

The transport from the pet store to your tank causes a great deal of stress in a fish. This is one reason to quarantine; the fish needs time to adjust to its new home before it is introduced to other fish. The quarantine will also allow you to monitor the new fish for any diseases that may pose a threat to the other fish. Most people recommend a quarantine period of about two to three weeks. If you notice any abnormalities, keep them separated longer.

Why quarantine a sick fish?

With your existing fish you want to watch signs of sickness such as sluggishness or lack of appetite. Color change is also a sign of illness. Getting to know your fish could really help you in noticing symptoms of sickness in your fish. Catching a diseased fish early and quarantining it could stop the spread of the disease to other fish in your tank. While in the quarantine tank the sick fish can get better without stress or harassment from other fish.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Aquarium Fish Diseases

Aquarium Fish Diseases


What fish ailments do you need to look out for?
How do you heal your sick fish?

Often, detecting illness in your fish is very difficult. However, because disease spreads quickly in tanks it is necessary to spot illness quickly and separate an ill fish from others. Hospital tanks are as expensive as one might think and they also guarantee the safety of other fish. When a diseased fish is spotted it should either be destroyed or placed in a hospital tank. Also, new fish can be acclimated to new environments using hospital tanks, and this will also serve to make sure the fish harbors no diseases.

What are some symptoms and diseases to look for?

The most common disease in saltwater tanks is Ick. Ick are free swimming parasites that literally eat fish alive. Symptoms of Ick include white spots on scales, gills or heads of fish, strange swimming motions, decreased appetite, and change in breathing habits (the fish struggles to obtain oxygen). Treatment can either be to remove the fish that display symptoms, or treating the water in the tank with a solution from a pet store.

Marine Velvet is quite similar to Ick, however, the main difference being its elongated life span. There are a number of other parasites that can attack your fish, usually you may diagnose them if your fish rubs against rocks, swims awkwardly, secretes slime or has open sores, clouded eyes, or there may even be white worms hanging out of the fish. Some cases can be treated with antibiotics, but usually the fish must be destroyed.

Lateral Line Erosion is a disease that causes facial erosion and pits in the skin. Its primary symptom is loss of interest in food, and an antibiotic food can help to cure it.

Finrot is a disease that occurs primarily due to poor water maintenance. Its symptoms are fin erosion that leads to hampered swimming and reddened areas on the fish's body.

Disease and parasites are remarkably harmful to your fish, be sure and monitor their condition regularly and provide a very sanitary environment for avoidance. Give your fish a good diet with vitamins to held them ward off disease, and always keep a hospital tank available in case of any problems.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Sucker Fish

Sucker Fish

What do Sucker fish look like? How do they act?
What do you need to know about them?
What do they look like?

Suckers are rather dull in color. They may be practically invisible, depending on their surroundings. They are usually very ordinary in color, ranging from browns to greens. Their undersides are typically silver. The tails on suckers are deeply forked, and the head normally has few, if any, scales, which is unusual for fish. The scales on their bodies, however, are generally larger than average. They have teeth, but they're not visible by humans. Their teeth are in their throats and are used to devour shell-bearing prey.

How do they behave?
Suckers are generally quiet fish. They usually keep to themselves and try to stay away from any fears or dangers in their own world.

The sucker is named after its sucker of a mouth. It has a suction cup for a mouth and has distinguished protruding lips on the bottom of their heads. The mouths on these fish act as a vacuum cleaner of sorts. It is used to eat small animals and insect larvae. Suckers generally prefer to eat worms and vegetation from the bottom of their habitat.

What else do you need to know about them?
Suckers generally find their food based on their ability to taste and touch. They like to comb the bottoms of their habitat looking for dinner. Using their suction-like mouth to find their food.

Suckers breed in the spring months and like to breed in shallow waters. When its time to spawn, male suckers develop pearls on their snouts and tails. The female presses up against these organs, and eggs are shed together.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

How To Set Up A Fish Aquarium

How To Set Up A Fish Aquarium

Setting up a fish aquarium in your home?
Here is a brief description of what you need. A fish aquarium makes a wonderful addition to your home. I feel that they change the appearance of your home and are fun to have. There are a few things you need to know to set up your aquarium properly. Here is a list of things you will need when you begin to set up your aquarium.

1. First you need to decide what size tank you are going to use. There are many different styles to choose from, and many sizes.

2. A filter large enough for the aquarium you plan to use.

3. Gravel for the bottom of the tank.

4. Decoration for the aquarium that gives the fish something to hide and play in.

5. Check with your local pet store to see what types of treatment for your water they recommend.

These are basically all you will need to get an aquarium set up in your home. It is very simple to finish. Set your tank where you plan to keep it. Go ahead and put the gravel and decoration in place where you want them. Put the filter on the tank and turn it on. Pour your water in slowly and treat it at the same time.

I recommend you let the tank sit for about two weeks before you add fish. This gives the filter and medication time to do their job.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Aquarium Cleaning Tips

Aquarium Cleaning Tips

Aquarium cleaning tips: your freshwater aquarium needs regular care to maintain a healthy environment for your tropical fish. Proper cleaning will keep your aquarium in top condition.
Maintaining and regularly cleaning your freshwater aquarium is necessary to keep it looking attractive. A regular cleaning will also help prolong the life of your tropical fish. Cleaning your aquarium is a fairly simple routine that needs to be done approximately every two weeks.

The first step is to take out any artificial plants, the filter stem, and any decorative items. These may be soaked in a mild solution of bleach and water to remove any algae. Be sure to thoroughly rinse and soak these items in clear water for the same length of time they were in the bleach solution. This will ensure that all of the bleach is gone. If the filter is not very dirty, it can be rinsed in hot water to remove any waste particles. If rinsing does not remove the debris, then it will be necessary to change it.

Next, you will need to remove twenty percent of the water in your aquarium. This is best achieved with a gravel cleaning siphon. This handy tool will take out waste particles from the gravel and keep the nitrogen cycle of your aquarium functioning correctly. If your aquarium has an underground filter, it will also help to improve its operation.

While the water is at a lower level, you can use a dish scrubbing pad to clean the inside of the glass. Never use soaps or chemicals inside your aquarium. They are toxic to your fish. There are additives you can purchase that will significantly inhibit algae growth. A higher wattage bulb will promote algae growth, so be sure your tank has a low wattage bulb made especially for aquarium use. Limiting the length of time the light is on will also help.

Before replacing the water in your aquarium, put the filter stem back in place, filter, plants, and any other items. Using chlorine-free tap water, fill the aquarium back to the proper level. If your tap water is not chlorine-free, you will need to add a chemical that neutralizes the chlorine. Another option would be to run the water you intend on using forty-eight hours in advance. The chlorine will evaporate, and the water will be safe for fish.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Setting Up A Freshwater Fish Tank

Setting Up A Freshwater Fish Tank

This article discusses the basics of setting up a healthy freshwater fish tank including tank size, filters, plants, and breeds of fish.
Fish make excellent pets. They are beautiful, inexpensive to feed, and, generally, require little time. An attractive fish tank makes a wonderful focal point for a quiet room. Many doctors and dentists have fish tanks in their waiting rooms because studies have shown that watching a tank of fish can help lower blood pressure and induce calm.

Freshwater tanks can be either coldwater or tropical (heated). Coldwater tanks are for goldfish. Tropical tanks are for angels to zebra danios and everything in between. Once you have chosen the type of tank you want, you should consider what size your tank will be and where it will be located. It will need to be close to an electrical outlet, but away from direct sunlight and heat sources. A corner of a room is a good location, or any place that meets other requirements and is not in a well-travelled area where the tank could be frequently bumped. The size of tank you choose will determine the type of support you will need. A firm table or counter will support smaller tanks. Large tanks need special stands. The ten gallon tank is the most popular size. In addition to different sizes of tanks, there are also different shapes of tanks, for example, a 20 gallon long or a 20 gallon tall.

There are three basic types of filters: intank filters, exterior filters, and under gravel filters. The type you choose will be based somewhat on personal preference, but mostly on the efficiency of the filter for the size and shape of your tank. If you purchase a packaged tank, hood, filter, pump, heater, thermometer, etc., the filter and pump will be matched to your tank size. Otherwise, consult a pet supplier for recommendations to ensure that your pump and filter are the most efficient for the tank you have chosen.

To allow the tank to stabilize, you should set it up at least two weeks before you bring home your first fish. Start by thoroughly cleaning the tank and all equipment with baking soda and warm water. If you need to scrub any stubborn spots, use plain salt. Rinse everything thoroughly. Be extremely carefully handling the tank to avoid chips and cracks. Larger tanks are obviously a two-person undertaking. Place at least two inches of gravel in the bottom of the tank. Be creative with contouring the gravel and adding rocks. Live plants help keep a tank healthy, provide natural refuges for your fish, and enhance the beauty of this miniature ecosystem. Your pet supplier will have many varieties of plants. Elodea is particularly hardy and is a good choice for beginners. Add water slowly and carefully to your tank. If your water is chlorinated, it may need to be conditioned to remove the chlorine. Additionally, the acidity of the water may need to be adjusted. Water conditioners and test kits are inexpensive and readily available. Follow the written instructions that accompany your filter, pump, and heater when setting them up. Place the thermometer in a location that is easily visible.

Buy a couple of hardy fish, like guppies, to start and allow the tank to stabilize for several weeks. Some of the fancier breeds are more sensitive and may not survive if the tank is not stable. The number of fish your tank will support will depend on the surface area of your tank and the size of fish you intend to keep. The general rule of thumb is that you can keep one inch of fish for each gallon of water in your tank. For example, if each of your fish will grow to two inches in length, a ten gallon tank will support five adult fish. If you want a community tank with several different types of fish, avoid agressive breeds which may bully or even eat smaller fish. Oscars and Siamese fighters are not good choices for community tanks. Tetras, guppies, swordtails, and mollies are among the many tropical favorites. An algae eater and a small catfish will help keep the tank balanced.

Many more fish die of overfeeding than starvation. Feeding little and often (two or three times per day) is the preferred method. Sprinkle just a pinch of flakes on the surface of the tank. If the food is eaten within a minute or two and the fish still seem to be hungry, add another pinch. Never leave stale or rotting food in the tank. If food is left after five minutes, do not feed the following day.

Once your tank is stable, you will need to clean the filter and change approximately 10 to 20% of the water every month or two, depending on the type of filter and pump you have. Be sure to refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for your maintenance schedule. If any of your fish show signs of illness or disease, consult your pet supplier or a reliable reference book for appropriate treatments.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Cleaning Your Fish Tank

Cleaning Your Fish Tank

Cleaning a fish tank regularly is important - learn how to do it.

Step 1

Changing your water:
It is recommended that you change the water in your tank once a week. If you maintain this frequency you only have to change out about ten percent. If you decide to go once a month, take out twenty five percent. Make sure when you put new water in that it matches the pH level of your tank; if it doesn't, adjust it before putting it in.

Step 2
Pouring water into your tank:
Before pouring the water in, add chemicals that remove chlorine and chloramine from the water. Other products product your fish's gills, look into any product that can help your fish cope with their environment. When you pour the water in be very gentle and try and pour it down the side of your tank to avoid jarring the fish.

Step 3
Test the waters
No matter how often you change your water, check at least once a week to make sure no dangerous chemicals or pH levels are present. Test kits are available at pet stores that will take care of this.

Step 4
Clean Filters
Every couple of weeks remove your filter and wash it out with cold water.

Step 5
Remove Algae
Make sure to remove algae when your water gets cloudy or it collects. To do so you can use a specific scraping device intended for the purpose, a toothbrush, or some even remove the filter from their tube and use the tube as a vacuum.

Step 6
Daily checks
Take a look at you tank daily so you can remove any potential hazards. Make sure food hasn't built up at the bottom of the tank, and also if any fish die remove them immediately. Generally, it is relatively easy to maintain a clean and safe environment for your pets at no large inconvenience to you.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Fish Tank Filters

Fish Tank Filters

Fish tank filters: What are the different types of filters? Which ones are best for your tank?
One of most important things you need to consider when setting up a new tank is the filter you are going to install. For some types of exotic fish, the wrong filter means death. You will need to understand what a filter is and how it works before you purchase one for your tank.

How do they work?
A tube suctions up air which forces water to enter from the tank. The water transfers through the filter and back out into the aquarium. Filters vary on design but, this is basic concept found in all of them.

Why is a filter so important?
Filters basically perform two important duties. The first thing they do is remove all harmful and/or unneeded particles from the water. The second thing they do is to reduce the amount of ammonia in the tank. The filter needs to be changed occasionally, at least cleaned. The particles it removes from the tank stay in the filter and the water that passes through will eventually carry it back into the aquarium. With a reduction of ammonia in your tank, there will be a lower chance of algae growing in your tank.

What kind of filter should you use?

There a few things that will determine what kind of filter you need. These include the size of your tank, the type of tank, the fish you plan you buy, and your budget. The three cheapest types of tank include the corner box filter, under gravel filter, and the sponge filter. Corner box filter come with most smaller aquarium kits. This filter provides good oxygen circulation and ammonia removal.
The under gravel filter works just like its name suggests. Instead of pulling the dirt particles and ammonia up and out of the water, the under gravel filter pulls them down under the gravel and traps them there. The waste and debris are trapped along the length of the bottom of the tank, keeping the rest of the tank clean and safe for your fish. The sponge filter is used mostly when there is breeding going on.

Since the tubes on the sponge filter is so small, baby fish will not be sucked up into it. Besides, the sponge filter provides microscopic nutrients for young fish. Then there are more expensive filters. These include canister filters, diatom filters and reverse osmosis filters. These filters are designed mostly for larger tanks. Canister filters a larger amount of water. In addition, they also serve as a great water softener and degasser. The diatom filter is basically same except that they provide an added bonus. They use diatomaceous earth, skeletons of tiny animals that are used to form plankton in both fresh and salt water tanks. Reverse osmosis filters are basically used for tropical fish that cannot live in hard water. This filter removes any metals, mineral salts or calcium deposits that may form in your tank.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Fish Maintain A Social Rank

Do Fish Maintain A Social Rank In Your Tank?

What evidence is there to suggest a social hierarchy among fish?
Will fish in captivity exhibit these behaviors?
How does a fish show dominance?

These behaviors include: Fin display, charging, chasing and biting. When a fish wants to appear fierce, it shows its dorsal fins. This is a sign of threat. Fin display alone can force some fish into submission. Charging involves a slow, yet direct, approach toward another fish. By charging, the dominant fish expresses that it is not afraid to attack. Chasing is basically the same concept. Biting is the actual expression of attack. Biting is the last measure in gaining dominance. All other fish will likely become submissive.

Why do some fish seek dominance?

It is the cornerstone of survival and evolution; survival of the fittest. By gaining dominance it provides an increased access to food and resources. In addition, the dominant member of a school will get preference when it comes to mating; they will be able to choose the best mate. Dominant fish usually become bigger and faster as a result.

Without some sort of dominance hierarchy some species would not last. When the dominant fish goes to choose a mate, he chooses the one most likely to produce the greatest number of strong fish. If it was performed more egalitarian, the genes would not be combined in the most beneficial way.

What signs do submissive fish demonstrate?
Submissive fish are less likely to raise fins or move around. The submissive fish will simply follow the dominant fish. They are more prone to attacks from the dominant fish and outside predators. They tend to always be smaller in size. Submissive fish get the last choice of a mate or have none at all, and they are usually the first to die in the school.

Will fish display this in captivity?

There have been many studies documenting this behavior in captivity. Regardless of being captive or not, fish still have an overwhelming instinct to survive and to procreate. If you have an aquarium you will see the aforementioned signs of dominance.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Aquarium Tank Maintenance

Aquarium Tank Maintenance

If you have an aquarium tank there are important facts you need to know to provide a healthy environment for your fish. Learn all about aquarium maintenance. Aquariums in your home can bring you hours of relaxing pleasure. Watching the tiny fish as they gracefully swim about interacting with each other is so fascinating that anyone entering the room will be drawn into this pleasurable hobby. If you have an aquarium or plan to purchase one in the near future there are a few important facts you need to know to provide a healthy environment for your pets. It is very important that fully understand how to choose, set up, maintain and stock a freshwater aquarium. In addition you will need to know about feeding the fish and treating ill fish.

To begin you should start with only a few fish. Many beginners find that goldfish are ideal when starting an aquarium. Some of the most popular freshwater species include guppies, swordtails and Siamese fighting fish. Be sure when purchasing your fish that you select fish that appear lively, well fed, free of fungus and other growths. When choosing the tank for your fish, a rectangular glass tank is the best container. Many people attempt using a traditional fishbowl which has a narrow neck that does not allow enough contact between the water and the air. You will need to make sure that each fish has 50 square inches of water surface. It is also important that the tank hold at least one gallon of water for each inch of fish. For instance, if you have two fish, each about 2 inches long, you need a four gallon tank with an opening of 100 square inches. You will to purchase a stand for the aquarium or, if you plan to use a table make sure that the aquarium is on a perfectly level surface.

After you have chosen your tank, make sure it is equipped with a glass or clear plastic cover to keep dirt out of the water, minimize evaporation, and help maintain an even water temperature. Much like with plants, any sudden temperature changes can be fatal to fish. An exception is the goldfish which tends to thrive in cool water. But with most tropical fish a water temperature between 68 degrees fahrenheit and 80 degrees fahrenheit must be maintained to keep them alive. Because of this, the purchase of a thermometer and water heater for tropical fish is always a wise move. Plants are a very important part of an aquarium. They remove potentially dangerous nitrates from the water, absorb carbon dioxide and give off oxygen during the day. But to ensure proper oxygenation of the water at all times you should install an air pump with a filter since at night plants can use up dissolved oxygen.

A few days before you buy the fish, you will need to wash the tank with clear water. Once this is done you can cover the bottom with 1 1\2 to 3 inches of well rinsed aquarium sand or gravel. Be sure that you slope the sand or gravel to form a slight hollow in the middle since this will catch dirt making cleaning your aquarium easier. Next you should soak the plants for 15 to 20 minutes in a solution of 3 tablespoons of salt per gallon of water to get rid of parasites. After they have soaked you will need to rinse the plants in clear water and bury the root areas in the sand or gravel. If you plan to use decorative items such as a few rocks or ceramic pieces, they should be added to the tank at this time. Using a slow running tap, fill the tank with water being careful not to uproot the plants. Place the aquarium on the stand or table you have chosen and allow it to stand uncovered at least 24 hours. You will want to completely prepare your tank prior to purchasing the fish since they should never be left in the plastic bag they will come home in for more than 45 minutes. After you have picked up your fish, they should be added to the tank by first floating them in their plastic carrying bag for 5 to 10 minutes or until the two water temperatures are the same.

The placement of your aquarium is also a very important matter. Tanks should always be placed where it will receive diffused light. It is wise to keep it in a diffused light area since direct sunlight may cause over heating and overgrowth of algae. If for any reason you find that you cannot get proper natural light for your aquarium, you can install a florescent light on the top of the tank. Most pet supply stores carry special lighting fixtures to fit any size tank. When you clean the tank you should scrape all the algae from the sides with a long handled glass scraper. You will then need to remove sediment, decaying plants, and uneaten food with a dup tube. Both of these tools can be purchased when you buy your aquarium and fish. You should occasionally trim the plants and siphon off some water from the bottom. Since this will lower the water level of your aquarium, you can replace it with water that has been allowed to sit for 24 hours.

Your fish should be fed twice a day with commercial fish food. If you discover that your schedule will not allow you to feed these pets twice a day then they should be fed each morning. When feeding fish, make sure you only give them as much as they can consume in 10 minutes since uneaten food pollutes the water. From time to time it is good to offer the fish a fresh or frozen food, such as daphnia which is a water flea or tubifex worms or bits of cooked liver, canned salmon, shrimp or hard cooked egg yolk. If for any reason you find you are out of fish food, you can use ground up dry cat food or baby cereal flakes to feed your fish. If you are planning on leaving town for a day or two don't worry about your fish if they have been properly fed prior to your leaving. It is safe for fish to go unfed for such a short period of time.

Even if you provide the best of care there are times when one or more of your fish may show signs of illness. If you observe that one or more fish are gasping at the surface, this means there could be insufficient oxygen due to over crowding, heat or dirt. The first thing you will need to do is improve the tank conditions. Then you should move any fish that appear to be ill to a separate tank for observation. If your fish have trailing feces this is an indication of constipation. In this case you should give the fish greens or other fresh foods in minute amounts. One of the most common illness in fish is fungus. Appearing as a white slimy coating, it will eventually infest a fish. When you think one or more of you fish are infested with fungus you should place the fish into a tank containing 3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water. If the fish does not improve in 3 or 4 days dispose of it.