Caring For Your Goldfish
Care information about keeping goldfish as pets.
Goldfish are undemanding, cheap to feed and pretty to look at, which makes them popular pets. However a lot of owners don't know how to keep them healthy and happy.
First of all, when buying goldfish, you shouldn't let them be placed in those small water-filled plastic bags as these do not hold enough water or oxygen, so the fish usually dies soon afterwards. Because goldfish thrive on a good oxygen supply, you should buy a regtangular aquarium with a large water surface area, avoiding traditional round goldfish bowls. The aquarium should also have a glass cover with a gap of a few cenimetres for air exchange. Try to place the aquarium in a bright area that receives at least an hour's direct sunlight a day. The water must be kept unpolluted with a neutral pH range (between 6.8 and 7.2). Unfiltered aquariums should have the water partially changed several times a week; fltered tanks only need to have this done once a month. If you use tap water, let is stand in another container for about 45 days or buy some de-chlorinating tablets.
The greatest cause of death in goldfish is overfeeding. Only feed your fish what they can eat within five minutes and remove any leftover food. The average goldfish should be fed once a day with a pinch of fish food.
Sick fish are easy to spot. They will sit on the bottom of the tank, their fins and tails drooping, swim on their sides or even float upside down. Diseases can be caused by lack of filtration, incorrect water pH, dirty water, overcrowding and rough handling. Goldfish are also particularly sensitive to changes in their environment. Substances such as sprays, nicotene and new paint will harm the goldfish. If you suspect that your fish is sick take it to the vet and keep it in isolation to prevent the disease from spreading.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish
Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish
The Siamese Fighting Fish, or Betta splendens, are bubble-nesters that breed by collecting and tending to their eggs in bubbles at the aquarium's water surface. The Betta splendens or the Siamese Fighting Fish tropical freshwater aquarium fishes that are known and bred for their exotically colorful finnage. As "labyrinth" fishes, also known as Anabantids, they have the capability to breathe air and survive in what would normally be considered unpleasant habitats such as filter-less, non-aerated tanks, or even individual jars. This preferred solo existence, however, is actually for their own health and safety because in a community, Betta males will seek each other and fight to death.
Most labyrinth fishes, the Betta included, are bubble-nesters. To successfully breed the Betta, you need an average-sized aquarium that is very lightly aerated and heavily planted with vegetation reaching up to the surface. Floating plants with trailing roots will also serve the purpose because the fish will build their bubble-nests among the plants close to the water surface. The plants will hold the bubble-nest in place.
Use a tight-fitting cover for the tank so that humidity remains high at the surface. The humidity will prevent the bubble-nest and eggs from drying up.
At breeding time, the male Betta chooses a small area among the plants at the water surface to build a nest. He gulps air through his mouth and expels them in the water through his gills. The expelled bubbles are covered with sticky mucus; they float upwards (but don't pop), and remain held together, afloat, by the plant leaves.
The male then courts a female and lures her under the bubble nest. When the female is ready, the pair engages in a tumbling embrace where eggs and milt are released into the water. Betta eggs are heavy so they sink to the bottom. As soon as the male recovers from the embrace, he goes about catching the eggs with his mouth and depositing them into the bubble nest. The female joins the male in collecting the eggs, after which, they resume spawning. The tumbling, spawning, and egg-catching activity lasts for several hours, giving rise to a nest of about 200 to 300 eggs.
After spawning, the male assumes its paternal role: to watch over the nest and pick a fight with whoever comes near, including the female. At this point, the female should be removed from the breeding tank.
The male will continue to reinforce the bubble nest, diligently returning eggs that fall off or float away back into the cluster. In two to four days, the fry will emerge. The male must be removed at this point, because he will tend to consider the small fishes as food. The fry should then be fed with infusoria or any appropriate fine-powdered fry food.
The Siamese Fighting Fish, or Betta splendens, are bubble-nesters that breed by collecting and tending to their eggs in bubbles at the aquarium's water surface. The Betta splendens or the Siamese Fighting Fish tropical freshwater aquarium fishes that are known and bred for their exotically colorful finnage. As "labyrinth" fishes, also known as Anabantids, they have the capability to breathe air and survive in what would normally be considered unpleasant habitats such as filter-less, non-aerated tanks, or even individual jars. This preferred solo existence, however, is actually for their own health and safety because in a community, Betta males will seek each other and fight to death.
Most labyrinth fishes, the Betta included, are bubble-nesters. To successfully breed the Betta, you need an average-sized aquarium that is very lightly aerated and heavily planted with vegetation reaching up to the surface. Floating plants with trailing roots will also serve the purpose because the fish will build their bubble-nests among the plants close to the water surface. The plants will hold the bubble-nest in place.
Use a tight-fitting cover for the tank so that humidity remains high at the surface. The humidity will prevent the bubble-nest and eggs from drying up.
At breeding time, the male Betta chooses a small area among the plants at the water surface to build a nest. He gulps air through his mouth and expels them in the water through his gills. The expelled bubbles are covered with sticky mucus; they float upwards (but don't pop), and remain held together, afloat, by the plant leaves.
The male then courts a female and lures her under the bubble nest. When the female is ready, the pair engages in a tumbling embrace where eggs and milt are released into the water. Betta eggs are heavy so they sink to the bottom. As soon as the male recovers from the embrace, he goes about catching the eggs with his mouth and depositing them into the bubble nest. The female joins the male in collecting the eggs, after which, they resume spawning. The tumbling, spawning, and egg-catching activity lasts for several hours, giving rise to a nest of about 200 to 300 eggs.
After spawning, the male assumes its paternal role: to watch over the nest and pick a fight with whoever comes near, including the female. At this point, the female should be removed from the breeding tank.
The male will continue to reinforce the bubble nest, diligently returning eggs that fall off or float away back into the cluster. In two to four days, the fry will emerge. The male must be removed at this point, because he will tend to consider the small fishes as food. The fry should then be fed with infusoria or any appropriate fine-powdered fry food.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Breeding Guppies
Breeding Guppies
Breeding Guppies is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment.
Is Breeding Guppies the hobby for you?
Learn more.
Pet care is an awesome responsibility even with tiny pets such as guppies. The breeding of guppies is an even larger commitment. It requires a serious outlook and should not be taken lightly.
The initial consideration is space. Guppies are relatively easy to breed compared to other animals; however, it is essential to have plenty of room in your home or apartment to accommodate the equipment needed. The secret is to start small. Expansion should be expected if there is success.
In addition to the initial tank, two more aquariums, one for each sex, each with the capacity of 15 to 20 gallons, should be prepared for the young guppies. Keeping the sexes separate from the earliest possible time allows guppies to be nurtured to maturity and more easily and selectively bred. A series of additional ten-gallon aquariums should be maintained, too, so you can separate guppies of certain desired color patterns that appear from time to time. Each tank will require all the necessary equipment that is normally needed in a single tank, such as proper lighting, heating, and a filtration system.
Once you've set up the equipment, shop for your first breeding guppies. The requirement is a virgin female neither too young nor too old. The male should be as close to the female's age as possible. Start them off on a conditioned diet of white worms, live or frozen foods, mosquito larvae, and brine shrimp, with a daily addition of high quality dry food.
Observe the male and female in their new environment. The male at this point is almost always swimming around the female in an elaborate display, spreading his fins before the female, seeking her attention. It may seem that copulation occurs many times. Guppy copulation occurs when the male touches its forward protruding copulatory fin to the female's genital area.
If all goes as planned, a fertilized guppy female will produce a new batch of fry approximately every four weeks, if kept warm, with as many as five litters being produced as a result of a single mating.
The first sign that a female is about to give birth is her gravid spot on her belly. It begins to appear darker in color. The gravid spot gets darker and moves down the female's body toward her vent. At this point, remove the female from the tank very carefully and place her in the previously prepared separate aquarium with large masses of floating plants.
Young guppies are usually born head first, emerging from their mother's genital opening in a curled position. They will uncurl almost immediately after they are born and will make their way to the surface, where their swim bladders are filled with air for the first time. The best time to net them is when they begin to near the surface.
As soon after birth as possible, remove the female guppy to another aquarium by herself. While well-fed guppies do not usually feed on their own young, it is always best to play it safe.
Observe the new fry for at least a week. Fry food is available at pet stores. It is powdery in nature, so avoid over-feeding as this has a tendency to clog the filter. If you observe any deformed guppies, remove them immediately.
It is possible to begin determining the sexes and separating the fry after the initial week. Experts have a procedure for "sexing" the fry that is easily reproduced by a home enthusiast.
First, you will need a two-gallon aquarium and a piece of black cardboard that can cover the back of the aquarium. Cut a hole about 1/2 inch in the center of the cardboard and place it on the back of the aquarium. Place a small lamp with a frosted 100-watt bulb directly behind the hole. Using the water from the aquarium containing the new fry, fill the two-gallon tank. Carefully remove two or three fry from the tank and put them in the sexing tank. Wait until early evening when the sun is dim, and using a magnifying glass, observe the guppy as it swims through the beam of light. Under these specialized conditions, the gravid spot of the females can be detected. Males will not have this spot. Segregate the males and females.
After 4 to 6 weeks, you should be able to see if any of the fry are displaying unusual color designs that greatly vary from the parents. If you are seriously working toward developing an unusual color strain, these should be segregated into a smaller tank of about ten gallons.
Among guppy breeding enthusiasts, there is great honor bestowed on those who are able to produce a male and female strain of guppies whose color and markings are closely matched. For this reason, it is also recommended that you study body coloration and spots on fins of the females.
After six months, the time has come to choose a couple of females who have developed well-shaped bodies, fins, and coloration. Observe them and remove them carefully from the tank. Place two females in another aquarium with the male you have chosen. Lower the net carefully into the water and allow the guppies to swim out on their own. Never drop them as this can cause undo stress. At this point, the process of breeding starts all over again.
If your interest is serious, experts suggest acquiring new stock from sources different from where you acquired your original stock. In this manner, there is a possibility of creating a hybrid.
Breeding guppies is not for everyone. It is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment. If breeding guppies isn't the answer, guppies make wonderful pets without the need to breed them. Both are fun.
Breeding Guppies is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment.
Is Breeding Guppies the hobby for you?
Learn more.
Pet care is an awesome responsibility even with tiny pets such as guppies. The breeding of guppies is an even larger commitment. It requires a serious outlook and should not be taken lightly.
The initial consideration is space. Guppies are relatively easy to breed compared to other animals; however, it is essential to have plenty of room in your home or apartment to accommodate the equipment needed. The secret is to start small. Expansion should be expected if there is success.
In addition to the initial tank, two more aquariums, one for each sex, each with the capacity of 15 to 20 gallons, should be prepared for the young guppies. Keeping the sexes separate from the earliest possible time allows guppies to be nurtured to maturity and more easily and selectively bred. A series of additional ten-gallon aquariums should be maintained, too, so you can separate guppies of certain desired color patterns that appear from time to time. Each tank will require all the necessary equipment that is normally needed in a single tank, such as proper lighting, heating, and a filtration system.
Once you've set up the equipment, shop for your first breeding guppies. The requirement is a virgin female neither too young nor too old. The male should be as close to the female's age as possible. Start them off on a conditioned diet of white worms, live or frozen foods, mosquito larvae, and brine shrimp, with a daily addition of high quality dry food.
Observe the male and female in their new environment. The male at this point is almost always swimming around the female in an elaborate display, spreading his fins before the female, seeking her attention. It may seem that copulation occurs many times. Guppy copulation occurs when the male touches its forward protruding copulatory fin to the female's genital area.
If all goes as planned, a fertilized guppy female will produce a new batch of fry approximately every four weeks, if kept warm, with as many as five litters being produced as a result of a single mating.
The first sign that a female is about to give birth is her gravid spot on her belly. It begins to appear darker in color. The gravid spot gets darker and moves down the female's body toward her vent. At this point, remove the female from the tank very carefully and place her in the previously prepared separate aquarium with large masses of floating plants.
Young guppies are usually born head first, emerging from their mother's genital opening in a curled position. They will uncurl almost immediately after they are born and will make their way to the surface, where their swim bladders are filled with air for the first time. The best time to net them is when they begin to near the surface.
As soon after birth as possible, remove the female guppy to another aquarium by herself. While well-fed guppies do not usually feed on their own young, it is always best to play it safe.
Observe the new fry for at least a week. Fry food is available at pet stores. It is powdery in nature, so avoid over-feeding as this has a tendency to clog the filter. If you observe any deformed guppies, remove them immediately.
It is possible to begin determining the sexes and separating the fry after the initial week. Experts have a procedure for "sexing" the fry that is easily reproduced by a home enthusiast.
First, you will need a two-gallon aquarium and a piece of black cardboard that can cover the back of the aquarium. Cut a hole about 1/2 inch in the center of the cardboard and place it on the back of the aquarium. Place a small lamp with a frosted 100-watt bulb directly behind the hole. Using the water from the aquarium containing the new fry, fill the two-gallon tank. Carefully remove two or three fry from the tank and put them in the sexing tank. Wait until early evening when the sun is dim, and using a magnifying glass, observe the guppy as it swims through the beam of light. Under these specialized conditions, the gravid spot of the females can be detected. Males will not have this spot. Segregate the males and females.
After 4 to 6 weeks, you should be able to see if any of the fry are displaying unusual color designs that greatly vary from the parents. If you are seriously working toward developing an unusual color strain, these should be segregated into a smaller tank of about ten gallons.
Among guppy breeding enthusiasts, there is great honor bestowed on those who are able to produce a male and female strain of guppies whose color and markings are closely matched. For this reason, it is also recommended that you study body coloration and spots on fins of the females.
After six months, the time has come to choose a couple of females who have developed well-shaped bodies, fins, and coloration. Observe them and remove them carefully from the tank. Place two females in another aquarium with the male you have chosen. Lower the net carefully into the water and allow the guppies to swim out on their own. Never drop them as this can cause undo stress. At this point, the process of breeding starts all over again.
If your interest is serious, experts suggest acquiring new stock from sources different from where you acquired your original stock. In this manner, there is a possibility of creating a hybrid.
Breeding guppies is not for everyone. It is an awesome responsibility requiring time, space, and a financial commitment. If breeding guppies isn't the answer, guppies make wonderful pets without the need to breed them. Both are fun.
Friday, March 13, 2009
The Angelfish
The Angelfish
The angelfish is the most colorful fish of the tropical oceans. The are various species. The angelfish is a most colorful creature. He is among the many marine animals that live in the underwater coral reefs. The angelfish can be found in all parts of the world. They are usually found in tropical or sub tropical oceans. They live among the coral reefs.
There are seventy-two different species of the angelfish. Each a masterpiece of color and style. The blue lipped emperor and the blue angelfish are considered the most colorful of all angelfish. The angelfish with its different shapes, sizes and colors light up the oceans, where they make their home.
The angelfish will travel single or in a small group. They establish their own feeding territories, and are aggressive in defending them against their own kind and others. If others come near, they flaunt themselves, where the intruder knows whose space he is invading. The intruder will usually leave without incident.
The diet of the angelfish varies with each species. Some of the species eat plankton, algae and plants. The larger species eat worms, shrimp and shellfish. Some are known to eat coral polyp, which are tiny animals that live as part of the reef. Angelfish are known to change sex as they mature. The groups of angelfish consist of one male and his harem of females. When the male dies the strongest, female changes sex, to become the leading male. She or He becomes the defender and fertilizes all the eggs.
When angelfish breed the male and female head toward the surface of it tropical habitat. The female quickly lays eggs and the male fertilizes them. The eggs are left to float out to sea, most do not survive. The eggs, transform into larvae, which when floating locates new coral and attaches itself. They feed from the reef, and develop rapidly.
Angelfish are not an endangered species. Most pollution in some of their habitats could cause decreasing populations.
The angelfish is the most colorful fish of the tropical oceans. The are various species. The angelfish is a most colorful creature. He is among the many marine animals that live in the underwater coral reefs. The angelfish can be found in all parts of the world. They are usually found in tropical or sub tropical oceans. They live among the coral reefs.
There are seventy-two different species of the angelfish. Each a masterpiece of color and style. The blue lipped emperor and the blue angelfish are considered the most colorful of all angelfish. The angelfish with its different shapes, sizes and colors light up the oceans, where they make their home.
The angelfish will travel single or in a small group. They establish their own feeding territories, and are aggressive in defending them against their own kind and others. If others come near, they flaunt themselves, where the intruder knows whose space he is invading. The intruder will usually leave without incident.
The diet of the angelfish varies with each species. Some of the species eat plankton, algae and plants. The larger species eat worms, shrimp and shellfish. Some are known to eat coral polyp, which are tiny animals that live as part of the reef. Angelfish are known to change sex as they mature. The groups of angelfish consist of one male and his harem of females. When the male dies the strongest, female changes sex, to become the leading male. She or He becomes the defender and fertilizes all the eggs.
When angelfish breed the male and female head toward the surface of it tropical habitat. The female quickly lays eggs and the male fertilizes them. The eggs are left to float out to sea, most do not survive. The eggs, transform into larvae, which when floating locates new coral and attaches itself. They feed from the reef, and develop rapidly.
Angelfish are not an endangered species. Most pollution in some of their habitats could cause decreasing populations.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Caring For Baby Fish
Caring For Baby Fish
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when your fish have babies? How do you help them grow up to be healthy adults?
Baby fish are known as "fry". Typically healthy adult fish will breed on some sort of cycle so sooner or later you will have to care for fry to some extent. Fry are very vulnerable and few survive to grow up, although there are ways for you to maximize you success rate.
Separate tanks:
Most experts recommend moving pregnant fish into a separate tank, however usually you are unaware of your fish's maternal status. Just keep an extra tank around so that if fry appear you can evacuate them immediately. Make sure the new tank looks very similar to their destination environment and that pH levels are similar so your fry can adjust.
New home, better lighting:
A couple of factors will need to change in the fry's tank, specifically lighting. Bright lighting will encourage you fry to be active and when active they will eat more. The fry need the extra food to grow so keep a steady light on your fish.
New home, different filter:
Fry have a tendency to get caught in filters so try and under gravel or sponge filter as a precautionary measure.
New food:
Notice how your fry are born; if hatched the best food choices are artemia or infusoria. When the fish are larger ask a pet store employee what food best fits your purpose.
Weekly care:
Just like your adult tank make sure to test and check water temperature and chemistry regularly. Fry are even more susceptible to sudden changes and need a stable environment. Make sure to remove dead fish and ammonia every day. If you take good care of your fry and your adult fish you may very well have a large family of pets in no time.
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when your fish have babies? How do you help them grow up to be healthy adults?
Baby fish are known as "fry". Typically healthy adult fish will breed on some sort of cycle so sooner or later you will have to care for fry to some extent. Fry are very vulnerable and few survive to grow up, although there are ways for you to maximize you success rate.
Separate tanks:
Most experts recommend moving pregnant fish into a separate tank, however usually you are unaware of your fish's maternal status. Just keep an extra tank around so that if fry appear you can evacuate them immediately. Make sure the new tank looks very similar to their destination environment and that pH levels are similar so your fry can adjust.
New home, better lighting:
A couple of factors will need to change in the fry's tank, specifically lighting. Bright lighting will encourage you fry to be active and when active they will eat more. The fry need the extra food to grow so keep a steady light on your fish.
New home, different filter:
Fry have a tendency to get caught in filters so try and under gravel or sponge filter as a precautionary measure.
New food:
Notice how your fry are born; if hatched the best food choices are artemia or infusoria. When the fish are larger ask a pet store employee what food best fits your purpose.
Weekly care:
Just like your adult tank make sure to test and check water temperature and chemistry regularly. Fry are even more susceptible to sudden changes and need a stable environment. Make sure to remove dead fish and ammonia every day. If you take good care of your fry and your adult fish you may very well have a large family of pets in no time.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Damselfish In Aquarium
Damselfish In Aquarium
What do aquarium dmaselfish looklike?
How do they behave?
Everything you need to know about Damselfish?
What do they look like?
Damselfish can be some of the brightest colored fish in the sea. They are generally found in vivid colors of oranges, yellows, reds, and blues. You'll see them in solid colors and in white or black stripes. You'll even see them striped with a variety of their main colors. But all of the damselfish's markings are brilliant. The smaller these fish are, the more amazing their colors are. When these fish grow larger, their colors tend to fade a bit. Damselfish are oval-shaped and have large, beautiful fins. Their fins are often rounded, and their bodies are longer than they are wide. Their dorsal fins typically have about a dozen spines and a dozen sectioned rays. They are covered with reasonable-sized scales across their bodies. The have small mouths and their teeth are tiny and form the shape of a spoon.
How do they behave?
These fish like to live along the bottoms of bodies of water. They like to find a place to hide out to call home. This is generally a nook or cranny along the bottom of the ocean, such as a coral reef. This serves as a place to go when they feel threatened. They themselves, however, are also quite predatorial. When they see a sea creature they'd like for dinner, they don't waste any time or energy. They attack and bite the fish and let out fairly loud grunts.
What should you know about them?
When these fish spawn, the males in the bunch build nests. They clear rocky areas of vegetation, where the females lay between 50 and 1,000 eggs. Male damselfish protect the nest until they hatch about a week later.
What do aquarium dmaselfish looklike?
How do they behave?
Everything you need to know about Damselfish?
What do they look like?
Damselfish can be some of the brightest colored fish in the sea. They are generally found in vivid colors of oranges, yellows, reds, and blues. You'll see them in solid colors and in white or black stripes. You'll even see them striped with a variety of their main colors. But all of the damselfish's markings are brilliant. The smaller these fish are, the more amazing their colors are. When these fish grow larger, their colors tend to fade a bit. Damselfish are oval-shaped and have large, beautiful fins. Their fins are often rounded, and their bodies are longer than they are wide. Their dorsal fins typically have about a dozen spines and a dozen sectioned rays. They are covered with reasonable-sized scales across their bodies. The have small mouths and their teeth are tiny and form the shape of a spoon.
How do they behave?
These fish like to live along the bottoms of bodies of water. They like to find a place to hide out to call home. This is generally a nook or cranny along the bottom of the ocean, such as a coral reef. This serves as a place to go when they feel threatened. They themselves, however, are also quite predatorial. When they see a sea creature they'd like for dinner, they don't waste any time or energy. They attack and bite the fish and let out fairly loud grunts.
What should you know about them?
When these fish spawn, the males in the bunch build nests. They clear rocky areas of vegetation, where the females lay between 50 and 1,000 eggs. Male damselfish protect the nest until they hatch about a week later.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Keep Hermit Crabs And Snails In Your Home Aquarium
Should You Keep Hermit Crabs And Snails In Your Home Aquarium?
Are hermit crabs and snails safe for your tank?
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when housing crabs and snails in your aquarium?
Hermit crabs and snails can be a wonderful addition to any aquarium because of their janitorial tendencies. However, you need to keep in mind the demands of your system as to what sort of hermit or snail to purchase.
What are hermit crabs?
A hermit crab has three legs, which separates it from true crabs with four. Their bodies are vulnerable and therefore they provide their own shelter in the form of a shell, which you will have to provide them.
How do you select a hermit crab?
When it comes to purchasing a hermit size is probably the most important factor. Make sure that your hermit is small enough to get at the hard to reach algae you cannot clean, and also small enough so as to not pose a threat to your fish.
Which hermit crabs should you avoid?
Large hermit crabs such as Anemone Carrying Hermit, Yellow Hairy Hermit, Cone Shell Hermit, and Striped Hermit should be avoided.
Which hermit crabs are OK to buy?
The Scarlet Hermit is colorful and eats algae well, however they can get expensive. The Left Handed Hermit is very small and perfect for a tank with many small crevices. The Red Legged Hermit is also very small and eats slime algae. The Blue Legged Hermit is very small but can kill snails, so stay away snail owners!
How do you select a snail for your tank?
For snails, the pH level of your tank is probably the most important factor. Soft water can wreak havoc on a snail's shell, so make sure you are aware of your snail environment.
Which snails should you avoid?
Pond, Mystery, or Colombian Ramshorn snails consume egregious amounts of plants, so unless you have plant life to spare in your tank, stay away.
Which snails should you buy?
Astraea snails are famous for taking algae from rock surfaces. Pipipi snails are also good in rocky environments. Turbo, Malaysian Trumpet, and Ramshorn snails in general eat lots of algae, and the Apple snail only eats algae or dead fish.
In general just make sure before introducing a new pet into your aquarium environment that both the existing inhabitants and the newcomer will be able to thrive in their shared space.
Are hermit crabs and snails safe for your tank?
What kinds of things do you need to keep in mind when housing crabs and snails in your aquarium?
Hermit crabs and snails can be a wonderful addition to any aquarium because of their janitorial tendencies. However, you need to keep in mind the demands of your system as to what sort of hermit or snail to purchase.
What are hermit crabs?
A hermit crab has three legs, which separates it from true crabs with four. Their bodies are vulnerable and therefore they provide their own shelter in the form of a shell, which you will have to provide them.
How do you select a hermit crab?
When it comes to purchasing a hermit size is probably the most important factor. Make sure that your hermit is small enough to get at the hard to reach algae you cannot clean, and also small enough so as to not pose a threat to your fish.
Which hermit crabs should you avoid?
Large hermit crabs such as Anemone Carrying Hermit, Yellow Hairy Hermit, Cone Shell Hermit, and Striped Hermit should be avoided.
Which hermit crabs are OK to buy?
The Scarlet Hermit is colorful and eats algae well, however they can get expensive. The Left Handed Hermit is very small and perfect for a tank with many small crevices. The Red Legged Hermit is also very small and eats slime algae. The Blue Legged Hermit is very small but can kill snails, so stay away snail owners!
How do you select a snail for your tank?
For snails, the pH level of your tank is probably the most important factor. Soft water can wreak havoc on a snail's shell, so make sure you are aware of your snail environment.
Which snails should you avoid?
Pond, Mystery, or Colombian Ramshorn snails consume egregious amounts of plants, so unless you have plant life to spare in your tank, stay away.
Which snails should you buy?
Astraea snails are famous for taking algae from rock surfaces. Pipipi snails are also good in rocky environments. Turbo, Malaysian Trumpet, and Ramshorn snails in general eat lots of algae, and the Apple snail only eats algae or dead fish.
In general just make sure before introducing a new pet into your aquarium environment that both the existing inhabitants and the newcomer will be able to thrive in their shared space.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Seahorse And Your Aquarium
Seahorse And Your Aquarium
Can you keep seahorses in the same aquarium as your fish?
What's their natural habitat?
How do you take care of seahorses?
Seahorses posess a beauty that is both mythical and bewitching. These qualities draw many fans but maintaining a high quality of life for the seahorses can be exceptionally high maintaince. Seahorses are sparsely strewn about the vast ocean. This must be taken into consideration when shopping for one for you salt water tank. There should be no more than two seahorses in a 100 liter tank. Seahorses are territorial and any more than this amounmt could spur competition and the feeling that their homes are being invaded.
You really need to learn all the ins and outs of owning a seahorse before owning one. They require quite a bit of different kinds of live food. They'll need you to buy them brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, mysiad shrimp, and enriched Artemia. Some of these products are difficult to find, if you don't know where to look. Each of these different types of fish may be available in frozen form from a seafood dealer. You can ask your local aquatic expert for more information about dealers in your area.
Seahorses not only require a lot of different types of seafood, they require it often. You'll have to feed them these different types of shrimps at least twice a day. When shopping for a seahorse remember, same sex pairs are acceptable, but placing a female and a male in the same tank allows for less competitive nature and procreation. Seahorses primarly inhabit tropical reef regions so placing them in a reef like environment is best to ensure maximum quality of life .
Can you keep seahorses in the same aquarium as your fish?
What's their natural habitat?
How do you take care of seahorses?
Seahorses posess a beauty that is both mythical and bewitching. These qualities draw many fans but maintaining a high quality of life for the seahorses can be exceptionally high maintaince. Seahorses are sparsely strewn about the vast ocean. This must be taken into consideration when shopping for one for you salt water tank. There should be no more than two seahorses in a 100 liter tank. Seahorses are territorial and any more than this amounmt could spur competition and the feeling that their homes are being invaded.
You really need to learn all the ins and outs of owning a seahorse before owning one. They require quite a bit of different kinds of live food. They'll need you to buy them brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, mysiad shrimp, and enriched Artemia. Some of these products are difficult to find, if you don't know where to look. Each of these different types of fish may be available in frozen form from a seafood dealer. You can ask your local aquatic expert for more information about dealers in your area.
Seahorses not only require a lot of different types of seafood, they require it often. You'll have to feed them these different types of shrimps at least twice a day. When shopping for a seahorse remember, same sex pairs are acceptable, but placing a female and a male in the same tank allows for less competitive nature and procreation. Seahorses primarly inhabit tropical reef regions so placing them in a reef like environment is best to ensure maximum quality of life .
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Aquarium Frogs
Aquarium Frogs
Aquarium frogs need good homes - how do you set up the right aquarium that's best for your particular frog?
The home you chose for your frog is the most important decision you will make while owning your little friend. It should be a place where they will enjoy living in, which means something close or resembling their natural habitat. You need to find that a tank that will provide your frog with the best living standards.
What kind of housing should you provide for your your frog?
There exist many different types of frog. You need to know what kind of environment you frog would usually live in to design it's habitat
appropriately. Dry land frogs need a dry tank. Water frogs need an aquatic set-up. Tree frogs need high limbs and branches to climb on. Then again, some frogs need both aquatic and dry land aspects to their tanks.
The normal sized frog can live comfortably in a twenty gallon tank. For bigger frogs you will need a bigger tank. For more than one frog, you will need a much bigger tank. The should also provide ample light. A fluorescent lighting is suggested for almost all frogs.
For aquatic frogs you may want to consider heating the water. Almost all water frogs prefer a warm, humid environment. For land frogs you can keep the conditions at room temperature. For the most part, these frogs will live comfortably in the temperature you choose to live in.
When considering a flooring for your frog's tank, stay away from pebbles or wood shavings. The frog will eat the smaller pieces of these floorings. Pine chips will suffice however, potting soil or sand will allow to plant small trees and other plants that your frog will likely enjoy. Moss will keep the tank damp, something that even the land frogs will enjoy. The last thing to consider it providing a hiding place for your frog. In a captive setting the frog will want a place to itself, where it cannot be seen. A good haven for a frog is a hollow log. Any type of wood will do. As long as the frog can fit inside of it it will do just fine and your frog will much happier
Aquarium frogs need good homes - how do you set up the right aquarium that's best for your particular frog?
The home you chose for your frog is the most important decision you will make while owning your little friend. It should be a place where they will enjoy living in, which means something close or resembling their natural habitat. You need to find that a tank that will provide your frog with the best living standards.
What kind of housing should you provide for your your frog?
There exist many different types of frog. You need to know what kind of environment you frog would usually live in to design it's habitat
appropriately. Dry land frogs need a dry tank. Water frogs need an aquatic set-up. Tree frogs need high limbs and branches to climb on. Then again, some frogs need both aquatic and dry land aspects to their tanks.
The normal sized frog can live comfortably in a twenty gallon tank. For bigger frogs you will need a bigger tank. For more than one frog, you will need a much bigger tank. The should also provide ample light. A fluorescent lighting is suggested for almost all frogs.
For aquatic frogs you may want to consider heating the water. Almost all water frogs prefer a warm, humid environment. For land frogs you can keep the conditions at room temperature. For the most part, these frogs will live comfortably in the temperature you choose to live in.
When considering a flooring for your frog's tank, stay away from pebbles or wood shavings. The frog will eat the smaller pieces of these floorings. Pine chips will suffice however, potting soil or sand will allow to plant small trees and other plants that your frog will likely enjoy. Moss will keep the tank damp, something that even the land frogs will enjoy. The last thing to consider it providing a hiding place for your frog. In a captive setting the frog will want a place to itself, where it cannot be seen. A good haven for a frog is a hollow log. Any type of wood will do. As long as the frog can fit inside of it it will do just fine and your frog will much happier
Sunday, March 1, 2009
How To Breed Livebearing Tropical Fishes
How To Breed Livebearing Tropical Fishes
Livebearing freshwater tropical fishes like Guppies, Swordtails, Platies and Mollies breed by giving birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming young. Livebearing tropical fishes as so called because they do not lay eggs. They give birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming fry. Examples of livebearers are the Guppies, Swordtails, Platies, and Mollies.
The eggs of livebearers are fertilized and develop inside the body of the female, making the count of offspring relatively low – up to 50 per spawning. However, livebearing females have a unique capability to store sperm, which allows them to develop several successive broods from just one mating session.
The male has a gonopodium, a sex organ derived from several rays of the anal fin. When mating, the male directs its gonopodium towards the female and while briefly attached to the partner's cloaca, the gonopodium releases and channels sperms into the female. Once fertilized, female livebearers will nonchalantly give birth to their fry even in a community aquarium, with successive broods born as often as monthly. Unfortunately, the fry, being very small, become easy prey for other fishes, including their "parents". Fine-leaved plants offer good hiding places for the newly born, but not very many will survive to adulthood in a well-populated fish community. Which is why a specialized breeding tank is recommended for livebearing species.
Transfer the female, when she's about ready to drop her young, to a breeding aquarium rigged with breeding traps (plastic ones are commercially available) that will separate and safeguard the young. You can use layers of fine-leaved plants or patches of Java Moss where the offspring can hide. After the female delivers her brood, return her to the community
Livebearing freshwater tropical fishes like Guppies, Swordtails, Platies and Mollies breed by giving birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming young. Livebearing tropical fishes as so called because they do not lay eggs. They give birth to live, fully formed, and free-swimming fry. Examples of livebearers are the Guppies, Swordtails, Platies, and Mollies.
The eggs of livebearers are fertilized and develop inside the body of the female, making the count of offspring relatively low – up to 50 per spawning. However, livebearing females have a unique capability to store sperm, which allows them to develop several successive broods from just one mating session.
The male has a gonopodium, a sex organ derived from several rays of the anal fin. When mating, the male directs its gonopodium towards the female and while briefly attached to the partner's cloaca, the gonopodium releases and channels sperms into the female. Once fertilized, female livebearers will nonchalantly give birth to their fry even in a community aquarium, with successive broods born as often as monthly. Unfortunately, the fry, being very small, become easy prey for other fishes, including their "parents". Fine-leaved plants offer good hiding places for the newly born, but not very many will survive to adulthood in a well-populated fish community. Which is why a specialized breeding tank is recommended for livebearing species.
Transfer the female, when she's about ready to drop her young, to a breeding aquarium rigged with breeding traps (plastic ones are commercially available) that will separate and safeguard the young. You can use layers of fine-leaved plants or patches of Java Moss where the offspring can hide. After the female delivers her brood, return her to the community
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)